We order a Negroni to start on the terrace - after all, autumn is mild in Lugano and we half imagine we're already in the Mediterranean. The friendly waiter nods and points out the house-style Negroni, a specialty called "della Piazza", which contains Portofino gin, Noilly Prat and basil. We say yes, get it and are impressed by both the service and the quality of the drink. It is not a matter of course that restaurants in prime locations go to so much trouble. But the restaurant, which has a tradition dating back to 1855 and has just reopened after a change of ownership and renovation, has ambitions. The croquettes with Ibérico ham and paprika mayonnaise are proof of this. They are indeed above average, crispy and creamy, and would look good in any Spanish-influenced restaurant in Switzerland. The tuna tartare with avocado and sesame is no less successful, and the Nerano-style spaghetti alla chitarra with crispy zucchini chips and provolone del Monaco turns out to be an impeccably cooked and seasoned course. There is also pizza, turbot, entrecôte and even dung scratchings in the chörbli, both on the piazza and inside. A bit much, but why not if the kitchen is adequately staffed? The wine list, on the other hand, offers tried and tested wines, from Château d'Esclans to Winkl-Sauvignon from the Terlaner cooperative. Our red wine from Tenuta di Biserno is served a little too warm, but the waiter's kindness continues. By the time this article is published, the fine dining area on the second floor, accessible via a separate entrance, will also be open. Presumably also ambitious!
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