First things first - you are reading about the most unusual place for fine dining in Austria. The "Genießerei am Markt" is by far the smallest base of the Styrian gastronomic empire "Grossauer" - see also "El Gaucho", "Schlossberg" or "Goldkost". The market stall on Kaiser-Josef-Platz has always provided lunch menus and snacks. Walter Triebl - now "Lilli" in Fehring - has worked here before. Now Alexander Posch - previously head chef at the highly decorated "Zur Goldenen Birn" - has docked onto the market. He was willing to transfer after the team had run into sand. Because salads and stone-oven focaccia are not a satisfying occupation for such a man, the "marktDINNER" by Alexander Posch was conceived. From Thursday to Saturday at 6 pm, the mini restaurant is transformed into one of the best restaurants in Graz. The 15 to a maximum of 20 guests - then already with physical contact - can expect neatly laid mini tables with signed menus. What should also not go unmentioned: at the weekend, the market turns into a pleasure zone with what feels like a four-digit number of visitors, from which the drinking outdoor clientele of the stand are drawn past the tables to the toilet. In addition to serving and serving wine, restaurant manager Julia Glanzer is also the keeper of order, and a sense of humor is required to keep up with the lively activity. Speaking of wine: Glanzer regularly collects rare bottles just for the menu, where else can you get an excellently matured 2009 Blaufränkisch Lehmgrube from Schönberger in Mörbisch by the glass? And the food? Consistently high quality, intelligently balanced and without any airs and graces. To start, an excitingly good mini sandwich with beef tartare, the tender rump of beef comes from the butcher's shop Feiertag right next door. Then braised celeriac with sorrel, black garlic cream and beurre blanc from the apple cider - a wonderful plate with a Styrian identity that shines through here time and time again. See Klachlsuppe, served with a baked doughnut with grammel filling plus a spoonful of Alpine caviar on top - and indeed, the subtle fish eggs are not lost in the sometimes hearty arrangement. A delight: veal sweetbreads glazed with miso cauliflower cream and buzara stock made from dried mussels. And the main course is heralded by smoky wafts when Posch briefly places the lacquered (and butter-tender) duck on his Japanese Konro grill to finish. Graz has a new top restaurant.
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