When the main building of the "Traube Tonbach" burned down in January 2020, a piece of Black Forest gastronomic history was in danger of being reduced to rubble. However, the reconstruction succeeded in impressive style - and marked the start of one of the most impressive comebacks in German top gastronomy. Proof of this is the "1789", named after the year in which the traditional establishment was founded. Head chef Florian Stolte, previously responsible for the equally starred "Köhlerstube", has consistently developed his style here. 15 trips to Southeast Asia have left their mark on his signature style,
which combines classic French techniques
with Thai, Japanese and Vietnamese flavors. The restaurant opens with a playful street food experience with a fine dining attitude: if you're lucky, you'll be served summer rolls, papaya salad with ponzu hollandaise and satay skewers directly at the pass - a greeting from the kitchen that immediately awakens wanderlust. The elegantly warm dining room next door gives Stolte's creations the big stage. For example, the flamed yellowtail mackerel with imperial caviar or the impressive goose liver, interpreted twice: seared so that the core remains wonderfully creamy,
glazed with truffle jus and served with chanterelles, alongside ice cream with celeriac ragout. The Southeast Asian line is also present in the dessert: coconut parfait with strawberry pepper ice cream and Thai basil gel leaves you wondering for a moment whether you are still in the Black Forest. The service is cordial, with a modesty that is hardly necessary.