A staccato of words defines the line: "nature to table. italian inspired. produce driven." So says the homepage of "xpedit", which has been taken over for the umpteenth time. As a reminder: this is the "Expedit" that was founded a quarter of a century ago, a warehouse-like space at the old Postsparkasse, which at some point lost the "E" in its name. Now, Ivana Markovic and chef Ismael Faye, a young and exceptionally friendly team, run this veteran of the scene. As so often these days, "sharing" is the name of the game. However, single diners or couples have a hard time - for example with the main courses. The excellent pigeon from Deutsch Tschantschendorf - all of it cooked, the breast pink, the shanks wonderfully crispy, heart and liver on the side - can still be eaten by one person. With 450 grams of wild boar saddle, which is quite firm to the bite, it becomes difficult. If there aren't at least three of you, you'll have to have the rest wrapped up. When it comes to additional vegetables, the kitchen also offers a stage for neglected items - black cabbage, here with pistachio, is too rare. Pagunta turnip is also a side dish here. Very successful: Cannellini beans stewed with pumpkin and Pecorino Romano for the ragout. And at 19 euros, not unheavily priced. Amongst the starters, the "raw roasted venison" stands out, a kind of venison carpaccio, very intensely flavored with salted ringed carrot paste and charcoal mayonnaise. The wonderful Schremser is tapped to go with it, and the small wine list also includes bottles such as the quaffable "The Dog Cuvee" from the quirky Gumpoldskirchner "HOPI Bauern" among the classics. Or a witty, dust-dry Lambrusco.
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