Cairo, the lively North African metropolis with over 25 million inhabitants, can quickly become overwhelming with its sheer size and background noise. If you let yourself be carried away by the hustle and bustle and know the right oases of peace, you will fall in love at second sight - with a city full of history, contrasts and beauty that is waiting to be discovered on both sides of the Nile. On foot, by cab and subway.

To start our visit, we are greeted by Ramses II, whose eleven-metre-high statue adorns the entrance hall of the Great Egyptian Museum. From November 2025, all the exhibits in the impressive new building will be accessible, including the Tutankhamun collection. Early on Friday morning - the start of the Egyptian weekend - is a particularly relaxed time to explore the cultural treasures.

Because we have become hungry between the pharaohs' jewelry and Roman statues, we stop off on the first floor at "Zööba" - the young, successful chain for Egyptian street food in a modern style. We try taameya, crispy falafel made from fava beans instead of chickpeas, and koshari, the carbohydrate-rich national dish of noodles, rice and lentils with tomato sauce and fried onions. A glass of karkadeh, a sweet hibiscus infusion, will quench your thirst.

Strengthened, we continue by cab to one of the most famous buildings in the world: the pyramids of Giza, which we have already spotted from the museum's viewing platform. If you like, you can ride along them on a camel. The Great Pyramid of Cheops alone consists of over two million stone blocks. A building that has watched over the Nile Valley for over 4500 years. Once we arrive at "Khufu's" - one of the 1000 best restaurants in the world according to "La Liste" - our gaze rests on this architectural masterpiece for a while while we enjoy our fine dining. For the main course of our tasting menu, we choose Molokhia, a soup made from the spinach-like leaves of the mallow plant with a slimy texture - with or without rabbit roulade.

We then drive to Zamalek, the green Nile island in the heart of Cairo. It attracts visitors with its many small stores, cafés and restaurants. Via Mohammed Abdel Wahab Street we arrive at "Pier 88", directly on the water, where sea bass in a salt crust forms the conclusion of our culinary day.

By now it's getting late, so we move on to the nearby Cairo Jazz Club. There you can dance to live bands and DJ sets with a bottle of Stella beer in your hand - the young nightlife of Cairo.

After a short night, we start with omelettes, coffee and waffles at "Eish + Malh" ("Bread and Salt"). The charming café with its red chairs and Italian flair is perfect for brunch. It is popular with families and hipsters alike and is located in the middle of downtown, our starting point today. If you stay longer, you should try the pasta.

We then stroll to the Cinema Diana, which is surrounded by a lively flea market on Saturdays. From furniture to bric-a-brac, many a treasure can be found. We continue on foot to Talaat Harb Square, surrounded by buildings from the late 19th century, which are not coincidentally reminiscent of Paris: Khedive Ismail had them built in the French style. In one of these buildings, we visit the Access Art Space with its changing art exhibitions. In the sales area of the gallery, our gaze falls on colorful paintings by contemporary painters such as Miriam Hathout, who is known for her depictions of donkeys.

We then walk past the historic "Café Riche", where intellectuals and revolutionaries once planned the uprising against the British, to Tahrir Square - the symbol of the Arab Spring. In the adjacent Mohamed Mahmoud Street, graffiti reminds us of the call for freedom and justice - in a country that is once again under authoritarian rule. Because we need a short breather, we drink a fresh lemonade in the quiet courtyard of the "Oldish" and then take a cab to Bab Zuweila.

We start our tour of medieval Cairo from the magnificent 11th century city gate. We head towards the long al-Muizz Street, which skirts the famous Chan el-Chalili bazaar and marvel at the surrounding monuments and packed store fronts. At the end of the street, we visit the al-Hakim mosque, a place of tranquillity amidst the hustle and bustle. From the neighboring gate, Bab al-Futuh, we order a cab to al-Azhar Park. There we relax between palm trees and green meadows and listen to the dense soundscape of calls to prayer from the surrounding minarets as the sun sets.

For dinner, we drive to the sumptuously furnished restaurant "Taboula" in Garden City, where classics of Lebanese and Levantine cuisine await us. We recommend ordering lots of small starters - such as delicious Aleppo olives and fiery batata harra (spiced potato pieces). Meat lovers are enticed with köfte and shawarma. It's also worth taking a look at the desserts (Kunafa!) and the wine list.

Now accustomed to the hustle and bustle of Cairo, we take the metro to Mar Girgis ("St. George") station and explore the city's Christian traces. Our first stop: the Hanging Church, one of the oldest Coptic Orthodox churches in Egypt, built on Roman foundations. Around ten percent of Egyptians are Christians - mainly Copts, but also Catholics and Protestants. If you want to delve deeper, visit the nearby Coptic Museum.

The Ben Ezra Synagogue is also a reminder of Cairo's once vibrant Jewish community, which now consists of just a handful of people due to the political tensions in the region.

On the way back to the metro, we make a short stop at the nearby Darb 1718, a cultural center in the middle of a typical old town neighborhood. In addition to exhibitions and concerts, there is also a small pottery workshop where you can buy handmade ceramics. We then take the metro further south to al-Maadi station. The green, quiet district with its many trees and villas is perfect for a stroll. Small boutiques, bookshops and cafés are lined up along the lively Road 9. However, we turn off and walk to the Ratios Bakery with its shady courtyard and the well-stocked counter with cheesecakes and sourdough sandwiches.

At around 4 p.m., we make our way back downtown to experience the culinary highlight of the day. From the Saad Zaghloul metro station, you can walk to the Bab el-Louk district, where a real gem lies dormant in the basement: "Fasahet Somaya". The warm-hearted chef and owner Somaya al-Asyoty serves two freshly cooked dishes of Egyptian home cooking every day except Saturdays, between 5 and 7 pm. With its turquoise and white interior, the small restaurant is reminiscent of a Greek taverna. An insider tip until a few years ago, word has now spread about the quality of the food. It pays to be there early!

To finish off, we take a cab to the banks of the Nile, near the Four Seasons Hotel in Garden City. There we board one of the traditional falukas - small sailing boats that gently rock us back and forth on the water during the hour-long trip, while we pass by the lights of the city. Drinks and snacks purchased in advance at the kiosk are permitted. With this, we could confidently and happily conclude our visit to Cairo. But if you still have energy left, head back to the "Greek Club" downtown and enjoy one last cool drink on the roof terrace - with a bit of luck under the stars.