Even the thought of a long weekend brings a sigh of relief. Here's a guide for three days in Southern Styria, where time slips gently by and delight is your constant companion.
A quick respite dedicated to enjoyment and wine culture. Cured beef tongue, poganzen, and biodynamic wines promise that unmistakable South Styrian feeling.
Yes, there is such a thing as Friday magic. It’s especially tangible when you have the luxury of starting a long weekend after just four days at work. For some, a long weekend might begin on a Friday, for others it might end on a “blue Monday.” Either way, three consecutive days of freedom stretch time like putty, creating the perfect opportunity to savor as many restaurants in Southern Styria as possible. The density of Michelin-starred dining here is astonishing. Which encourages a simple rule: no long weekend without lunch and dinner, breakfast and brunch, coffee breaks and cultural bites.
Day one begins at HerrgottHö in St. Stefan ob Stainz. This winegrower’s restaurant is still something of a well-kept secret, little known beyond southwestern Styria. Demeter-certified vintner Christian Strohmaier and his two brothers run the restaurant, which has also earned a reputation for its formidable brunch. In the hidden rose garden or on the terrace overlooking the vineyards, their Schilcher cream soup with apple-grammel strudel and Schilcher jelly makes for a hearty start to the day. As a cold starter, the Vitello Forello comes highly recommended.
For something heavier, their classic pork crackling roast with cabbage salad, horseradish-miso foam, pumpkin seed oil, and brioche dumplings never disappoints. And a full belly is wise, since the route soon continues along the Sulmtaler Straße and the Seggauberg to the South Styrian Wine Road, with a stop at Rebenhof. This Ottenberg estate, run by Hartmut Aubell, has become a hub of vinophile innovation, producing unsulphured biodynamic wines sold in reusable beer bottles.
Wine has rarely been enjoyed in such an environmentally conscious way. Take Aubell’s golden-yellow Silt 2020, for instance - a blend of Sauvignon, Morillon, and Riesling, aged four years in stainless steel vats. It’s not driven by pure fruit, but retains a distinctly Styrian freshness, all while standing proudly apart. Much like Aubell himself, who makes wine on his own terms, ignoring fleeting trends.
From here, it’s about a 45-minute walk across the Sulztal valley to Gasthaus Maitz in Ratsch. A plate of cured beef tongue with balsamic onions, horseradish, and sourdough bread revives weary feet, as does the Sulmtal fried chicken, accompanied by a salad of beetle beans and radish – the unmistakable flavors of Southern Styria.
In the afternoon, go to the idyllic Hofcafé Skoff in Gamlitz, where you can sit under shady trees surrounded by roses and lavender. The fluffy buns with coffee are nearly impossible to resist – though the traditional poganzen, a local cake baked with generous amounts of tarragon by Franziska Skoff during Pentecost, are equally tempting. Her farm shop brims with delicacies: organic parasol mushroom powder, cornelian cherry jam, rose-inspired treats. Perfect little indulgences to take home.
Evening brings relaxation at the Weinrefugium Brolli, where the wellness area is open until 21:00, before you retreat to one of the rooms with a view of the vineyard for a peaceful night’s sleep. Be sure to make a visit to the Brollis’ up-and-coming tavern next time.
In Southern Styria, abundance is a given. The region’s deep respect for tradition is infectious, and slipping into its rhythm is comes easy.
“A moment on the lips, forever on the hips”? We prefer to discard that old chestnut. Instead, Saturday begins before sunrise with a hike from Leutschach through the Heiligengeistklamm gorge up to Sveti Duh. The nine-kilometer trail requires steady footing but rewards every step with spectacular views – fuel enough for a body already spoiled by good food and drink.
Back in Leutschach, the first stop of the day awaits: At Liepert’s, Manuel Liepert and Lisa Kürbisch not only run a Michelin-starred restaurant, they also serve what might be the most lavish breakfast in the region. Guests arrive to a fully set table, where every detail reflects the chef’s vision. Soon it becomes clear: this morning will glide seamlessly into abundance.
To offset the caffeine high, a round of mini golf is available right outside. A short 15-minute drive brings you to Gamlitz, where Philipp Marko and Lukas Fürk have transformed the former rectory into Weinkehr, their own charming tavern. Once colleagues at Weinbank, Marko now takes the role of sommelier while Fürk commands the kitchen. Their menu celebrates local classics: steaming soups, tender Beuschel, rich goulash, succulent Tafelspitz, and hearty Grammelknödel.
Culture pairs effortlessly with cuisine here. In Bad Gams, Austria’s first sculpture museum showcases the work of acclaimed artist Hortensia Fussy, whose work earned her the Golden Medal of Honor for Services to the Republic of Austria. Also worth a detour is the House of Pictures in Rassach near Stainz. Located in a former elementary school dating back to 1812, the space thrives as both gallery and creative hub, offering inspiration and exhibition space for artists.
After such a day, a cappuccino at Ursprung – a cozy café run by Nicole and Philipp Thomüller near Deutschlandsberg – offers the perfect respite. Their unpretentious tavern cuisine, shaped by regional suppliers and Thomüller’s personal touch, makes it an ideal dinner spot too.
As evening falls, return to Leutschach. At Liepert’s guesthouse, four uniquely designed rooms promise comfort, with chocolate fondue and a soothing in-house “good-night podcast” awaiting lazy readers. For something more minimalist, the nearby Weingut Tauss offers vineyard lodgings – and, with advance booking, a massage menu ranging from Lomi Lomi to lymphatic drainage for ultimate relaxation.
Southern Styria has its own fine dining microclimate – a true culinary mecca, sparkling with stars and accolades.
Day three calls for perlage! The morning begins with a pilgrimage to a true Austrian pioneer: Weingut Regele, the country’s first sparkling wine producer. As early as 1953, the estate was making history with its “Platscher Perle” – which was once enjoyed by none other than Elvis Presley. In keeping with the hour, the Regele family offers a refined alternative: Thee Bubble, a non-alcoholic sparkling tea blending grape skins, black and green teas, and verjus. A sophisticated, non-alcoholic indulgence.
From here, the fine-dining universe of Southern Styria beckons with effervescent flair. The only challenge: deciding where to go. Do you visit the Weinbank, where chefs Fuchs and Zach – multiple Falstaff award winners – deliver a perfect duet of cuisine and wine? Or perhaps Lilli & Jojo, where Joachim Gradwohl reigns with a light, yet masterful, touch? Equally tempting is the Sattlerhof gourmet restaurant, where Anna and Markus Sattler bring a dash of Scandinavian spirit to their menus, paired harmoniously with their own wines.
After such delicacies, it’s time for a change of pace. Depending on the season, you might cool off at the Steinerne Wehr, the oldest river bath in Styria, or immerse yourself in fragrant fields at the Biohof Wunsum in Kitzeck, the country’s largest lavender farm.
A contemplative stop at the Theresienkapelle rewards you with a sweeping 360-degree view of the Sausal wine country. From there, a stroll through the village of Pichla near Mureck leads you along historical paths – between the grocer’s, smithy, wainwright’s workshop, weaving mill, and even a “house of chastity.”
As the day winds down, it’s time for one last treat. At the Ratscher Landhaus in Ehrenhausen, the evening unfolds in the whimsical “Schluckspecht” sauna, followed by a swim in their heated infinity pool. Surrounded by vineyards glowing in the twilight, it’s the perfect finale to a weekend of Southern Styrian pleasures.
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