Central Dozen 2023: A Comparison of the best Pinot Noirs from Central Otago
Once a year, an independent jury selects twelve outstanding Pinot Noirs from Central Otago — a cross-section of vintage and region. Falstaff has taken a closer look at the selection and presents the highlights of the Central Dozen 2023.
The southernmost relevant wine region in the world is not located in Patagonia or Tasmania, but along the 45th parallel on New Zealand's South Island, surrounded by the foothills of the Southern Alps. Central Otago is a wine-growing region of extremes. In 1967, a scientist from the Te Kauwhata National Research Institute noted that the conditions on the South Island were not conducive to viticulture — the low night temperatures in summer prevented proper grape ripening.
What followed would prove to be one of the most remarkable misjudgments in the history of New Zealand's viticulture. The secret lies in the climate: Central Otago is the only region in New Zealand with a pronounced continental climate. Summer temperatures can climb to over 30 degrees and drop into single digits at night — conditions that shape the region's signature style: fresh, elegant, yet concentrated Pinot Noir.
From bold to subtle
Pinot Noir accounts for around 70 percent of production and is not only the flagship variety but also the identity of the region. And that identity has evolved in recent decades. In the early years, the wines were often loud and designed to stand out, but now the focus is on highlighting the region's diverse terroir. The profile of the wines has moved towards elegance and sophistication. What now emerges from the region's best sites speaks less of the New World and more of a region that knows exactly who it is.
2023: A demanding yet balanced vintage
This diversity is precisely what the Central Dozen aims to showcase. The Central Otago Winegrowers Association's initiative is an annual snapshot of Pinot Noir in the region: twelve wines, tasted blind, selected by an independent jury led by Master of Wine Emma Jenkins.
The year 2023 proved to be a challenging one. Cyclone Gabrielle devastated large parts of the North Island of New Zealand, while Central Otago remained largely unaffected. The summer in the region was warm and dry, but shortly before the harvest, frost and rainfall caused problems for the winegrowers. Those who worked carefully were able to harvest concentrated, healthy grapes. And although Central Otago covers around 1900 hectares, divided into six sub-regions, the 2023 vintage is considered remarkably consistent in quality. Compared to the more approachable, fruit-driven 2022 vintage, the wines from 2023 are more structured and complex — with concentrated fruit, fine tannins and great aging potential.
