Soon there will be nine billion humans on the planet, and almost all of us would like to see meat on the menu. How is that supposed to work – especially when cattle are rightly seen as a huge climate problem and pig farming is an environmental disaster? Here are some possible solutions.
Anyone who drove through Salzburg's Lungau region last summer could see them everywhere on the lush alpine pastures, grazing on aromatic herbs and grasses before lying comfortably in the sun to chew their cud: Cows are indeed an underrated miracle of nature. A herbivore, but a real hulk of an animal! It really is fascinating – only a very few species are able to generate energy from grasses. For humans, who can do almost anything, this is completely impossible. Cows, on the other hand, can grow into humongous creatures, weighing tons while producing gallons of milk every day. And when slaughtered, they provide hundreds of kilos of prime beef. It is therefore all the more surprising that cattle are rarely seen in their traditional environment these days – on pastures.
Grazing sounds like a fabulous method for getting prime cuts in a sustainable way. And science has proven that gras and hay-fed cattle produce significantly less methane and carbon dioxide than those fed with conventional methods. Yet grazing is out, thanks to farming subsidies: using feed is cheaper, therefore it's increasingly rare to send cattle out to pasture. Instead, they are fed corn, grain and other feed concentrates, which their digestive systems are not made for. Methane output is the result, as well as inflammation of the liver, which can only be controlled with antibiotics.
It's not much different with pork; the excrement from millions of slaughtered pigs is a major environmental problem, not to mention the moral issue of confining intelligent, social animals in cramped stalls that do not meet their needs in any way. It is increasingly obvious that the perceived right to cheap meat is wholly unsustainable in the long term. But how can we move our diet in a direction that causes less damage to the planet while also retaining the joy inherent in good food? How can we indulge without permanently destroying the climate and violating basic animal rights?
Perhaps a look back will help. It wasn't so long ago that the ancient pact between humans and farm animals (safety, a species-appropriate life and regular feed for animals – milk, meat, leather and lard for humans) was still in place. In those days, meat was only served in bulk on festive occassions. You could still get animal protein on other days, but to a far lesser extent. For many standard dishes like cabbage roll, stuffed peppers, bacon dumplings, pancake soup and doughnuts, bones and lard are essential and regarded as valuable ingredients to be used sparingly.
In the Far East, where meat consumption is rapidly increasing, it is no different. The Chinese culinary tradition is also full of delicious dishes where meat is used sparingly. From "Mapo Tofu" to "Yu-Xiang Eggplant, Szechuan-style" to "Gan Bian beans" or "Dandan noodles" and, of course, all kinds of gyoza and dim sum. In Italy, it has always been like this: the wonders of Cucina Povera are either completely vegetarian or, as with Friulian cabbage and bean soup, minestrone, the Piedmontese "Bagna Cauda" or the Neapolitan Arancini (and even more so for classic pizza!), the use of fish and meat is comparatively minimal.
No one will deny that all these delicacies are outstanding. It's no secret that after eating them, you're less sluggish and more energized than after some pork chops, beef roulade or Tournedo Rossini. Ending meat consumption with bans isn't viable. But recognising that true gourmet indulgence isn't just about enjoying yourself in the short term, but also ensuring the continued existence of our home, planet earth, is very much an option. Perhaps the only one. With this in mind: bon appetit!
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