A pilgrimage back to where civilization began should be mandatory for all travellers.
I’ve traveled to 78 countries and all seven continents in pursuit of the sublime. As a travel writer, I’ve voyaged across the Drake Passage, trekked the Great Wall of China, and hiked the Himalayan peaks, and yet no experience has ever surpassed my very first trip to Kenya. There is something so singular and spectacular about the Kenyan landscape and its ancient culture — it is, after all, the birthplace of mankind.
A pilgrimage back to where civilization began should be mandatory for all travellers today to gain a greater perspective on the wild beauty of our planet and an appreciation for all its inhabitants. (A group of elephants is known as a ‘memory,’ and I promise, it is not one you shall soon forget).
‘Safari’ means journey in Swahili, and an adventure through the East African grasslands is one of discovery — both of the self and your surroundings. To go on safari is to bear witness, after all, and we’re often confronted with the greatest revelations about our own lives while being utterly transported to a world entirely unlike our own.
But how to make this bucket list trip a reality? Read on for travel methods and itinerary recommendations for the ultimate Kenyan getaway, and prepare for the journey of a lifetime.
Travel to Kenya is less difficult than it may seem to the curious (yet overwhelmed) traveler — especially given that flight options to Nairobi have expanded in recent years. In 2018, Kenya Airways unveiled its first direct flight from New York City to Nairobi, eliminating the hassle of European layovers for travelers from the US — making the dream of East African travel more accessible for tourists and collaboration less strenuous for businesses in Nairobi and New York.
Upon arrival at Jomo Kenyatta International Airport, we recommend staying within Nairobi for the beginning of your trip — not only to rest up for what’s ahead post-red-eye flight but to explore everything the city has to offer. Later, when adventuring within the country, Safarilink planes are the most scenic and efficient method of transportation — from the coastline to the grasslands and beyond.
As for when to visit, there’s virtually no bad time to make the trip to Kenya, as the temperate climate ensures that the weather is suitable for active travelers year-round. (The perfectly accommodating atmosphere is unsurprising, considering that Kenya is where humanity first developed). That being said, June to October are ideal for safaris, given the lack of rainfall, and if you visit in early September, your trip will coincide with the wildebeest migration across the Masai. Travel later in the year is magnificent in its own way, however, as the grassland of the Masai Mara turns golden in November and December, casting the entire landscape in a heavenly hue. The good news? Kenya boasts plentiful wildlife activity year-round, so — whenever you visit — you won’t return home disappointed.
Too often, visitors choose to forgo a stay in Nairobi and instead board another prop plane for an immediate transfer to the countryside. But, the culture and heritage of the people are just as essential to understanding Kenya as appreciating the wildlife, and there’s much to be discovered in this vibrant East African capital, the nation’s largest city.
Stay: The Norfolk is a gorgeous oasis of tropical gardens and greenery in the heart of Nairobi. The historic property dates back to 1904 and offers secluded tranquility and old-world charm, with live music performed nightly at the piano and elegant dinners served on the veranda beneath the stars. Guests can also arrange to tee up at the 18-hole golf course of the iconic Karen Country Club, one of the oldest golf clubs in Kenya, established in 1937.
Explore: Spend time exploring Nairobi’s burgeoning art scene, and enjoy lunch at the former home of Out of Africa author Isak Dinesen at the Garden Restaurant at the Karen Blixen Museum — be sure to order the homegrown coffee (the local coffee everywhere in Kenya is divine). Pay a visit to the Giraffe Centre, which is adjacent to the ultra-lux Giraffe Manor, but (unlike the former) is open to the public. The best part? Your support at the Giraffe Centre goes towards community outreach. For every painting purchased, one school child in Nairobi gets a free visit to the Centre to see a giraffe (often for the first time).
Last but surely not least, be sure to adopt an elephant after you visit the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust, where guests can witness the rehabilitation of local elephants whose lives have been threatened or endangered by tourists and poachers — the dedication of local conservationists at both of these locations is awe-inspiring, and the perfect lens through which to understand the wildlife that awaits at your subsequent safari destinations.
Mount Kenya is the second-highest peak in Africa — the highest is Mount Kilimanjaro — and is known as “God’s Resting Place” in the native language of the indigenous tribes of the region, who regard the mountain as a holy place. The majestic beauty of Mount Kenya will leave visitors in no doubt that if God were to vacation on planet Earth, he, too, would choose this destination.
Stay: The Mount Kenya Safari Club is the legendary former haunt of the likes of Ernest Hemingway. What once was a big game lodge has now been transformed into a beacon of conservation (though the taxidermied approach to decor is a marvelously chic throwback to a bygone era). Today, the legendary property is spearheading wildlife preservation efforts, and a visit to the Mount Kenya Wildlife Conservancy offers an opportunity for visitors to get up close and personal with the local inhabitants, including the critically endangered Mountain Bongo, for which the conservancy is a lifeline in the region and on the continent at large.
Explore: Participate in a traditional equator ceremony at Mount Kenya Safari Club (the certificate you receive is the ultimate souvenir). Visit the lush environs of Ol Pejeta Conservancy, an oasis teeming with wildlife — expect to spot elephants, rhinos, lions, and more lounging within the African savannah. The 90,000-acre private wildlife conservancy is located in Kenya’s Laikipia District, between the foothills of the Aberdares and the snow-capped majesty of Mount Kenya. Explore the town of Nanyuki, and purchase local artwork and sculptures from artisans and vendors in the village.
While there is no shortage of spectacular beauty in Kenya — and its coast, in particular, is increasingly popular with international tourists — we adamantly recommend a trip inland for first-time travelers to experience the sweeping sunsets and panoramic vistas of the nation’s world-class safaris. And nowhere is the beauty of East Africa more evident than in the Masai Mara, where Baobab trees dot the endless grasslands, stretching on forever beneath the pastel blue of the Kenyan skies.
Stay: Fall asleep to the sound of hippos at The Fairmont Mara Safari Club and enjoy a traditional safari experience in one of the chicly-appointed luxurious tents scattered across the property. The pool is perfect for a refreshing dip post-morning drive, and the indoor-outdoor bar area is ideal for enjoying outrageously-refreshing Kenyan cocktails sourced with local ingredients and the freshest African fruits. Additionally, given that all the properties listed are under the Fairmont umbrella, it’s easy for guests to coordinate their stays in each location — just contact the hotel directly to inquire about transportation and beyond.
Explore: Set out on a morning and afternoon game drive within the massive and majestic Masai Mara National Reserve. The famous reserve is home to over 37,000 acres of savannah extending towards the Tanzanian border, where it becomes the Serengeti. Opt for a bush breakfast and sunset cocktails at an overlook beneath the stars: Mojitos are recommended for a morning wake-up, and Gin and Tonics — while always a satisfying sundowner selection — are never more so than in the plains of Kenya. Arrange to visit a village of the Maasai Mara, the noble tribe that has long lived within and ruled over the region — just be sure to withdraw plenty of cash at your hotel beforehand, as you will undoubtedly want to invest in some of the beautiful beaded jewelry that are the signature adornments of the Maasai.
