A picturesque sunset is the type of image that arises in the mind’s eye with one sip of well-chilled Vermentino. With aromas of lemon and sage as well as fine salty components, this wine is excellent for balmy summer evenings.
Vermentino is considered one of the highest quality white wine grapes in the Mediterranean region. It is believed to have originated on the Iberian Peninsula, and from there it spread via France to Italy. For a long time, it was mainly grown on the coast of Liguria and in the north of Sardinia, where it forms its own DOCG (Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin) under the name “Vermentino di Gallura”. In the past two decades however, Vermentino has also experienced a great boom in the coastal areas of Tuscany; the variety ripens late and always retains a good acid structure which makes it so interesting for winegrowers in the hot Mediterranean region. Vermentino smells of lemon, peach and herbs and shows slight notes of flint and sea salt. On the palate, Vermentino wines are of considerable structure.
The Grattamacco winery is appreciated worldwide for its Bolgheri Rosso Superiore, and it was also one of the first to bottle an ambitious Vermentino: the 2021 Grattamacco was fermented and aged half in stainless steel, half in new and used barrique barrels, with the result a Vermentino with good concentration and clear character. It is too good to be served as a simple aperitif and it can only show its full potential with strong fish dishes or white meat. The Grattamacco Vermentino was the best of our tasting.
Gallura is the name of the northern part of Sardinia where the granite rocks have been worked by wind and water and sometimes take on bizarre shapes. The Vermentino from Gallura has its own characteristics: the barren, stony soils give a tension to its saltiness. Siddùra is a joint project of Massimo Ruggero and a German entrepreneur who fell in love with Sardinia. The Spèra Vermentino 2021 is our second-placed wine.
The Colli di Luni winegrowing region covers the border area between Tuscany and Liguria. Here, Vermentino plays the leading role. Third place goes to the Cavagino from Colli di Lunae, the most ambitious of the three Vermentinos produced by the Bosoni family.
As different as the three winning wines may be, they also have something in common: all three grow on the coast of the Tyrrhenian Sea.
Grattamacco Vermentino Bolgheri Bianco DOC 2021 – 93 Falstaff points
Grattamacco, Castagneto Carducci
Bright, radiant straw yellow. On the nose candied lemon and flint, beautiful old wood, sea salt, discreet white flower in the echo. On the palate polished and delicately creamy, shows well integrated wood use, salty and with pleasant length.
collemassariwines.it, 30 Euro
Spèra Vermentino di Gallura DOCG 2021 – 93 Falstaff points
Siddùra, Luogosanto
Bright straw yellow with a tendency to light gold. On the nose delicately of candied lemon and hazelnuts, grapefruit, reminiscent of elderberryish cordial, red berryish tones in the echo, pineapple. Shows up on the palate with great acidity and fine fruit texture, vibrates over the tongue, racy, nice length.
siddura.com, 13,95 Euro
Cavagino Vermentino Colli di Luni DOC 2022 – 93 Falstaff points
Cantine Lunae, Luni
Bright, radiant, greenish straw yellow. Lime, lemon zest, hints of mint and sage on the nose, light on white peach in the finish. Brisk on the palate, racy, with a nice saline course, on crisp citrus, nice length.
cantinelunae.it, 22,70 Euro
