There is nothing more French than jumping into your car and heading straight for the South of France.
As iconic to France as the baguette and beret, Nationale Sept is akin to American’s Route 66 – a well-travelled road by locals with historical roots dating back to the Romans. The Romans are said to have created a route between Paris and Rome via Lyon, which was then the capital of the Gauls, running along the Mediterranean coast. Aptly named Route des Vacances, the road is iconic simply because it offers a weekend escape for Parisians to the South of France, and to this day is the main road taken by city-dwellers looking for sun and sand on weekends.
There is nothing more French than jumping into your car and heading straight for the South of France. While jetsetters will head directly for coastal towns like Antibes, travellers looking for understated luxury will stop in Provence.
Provence needs no introduction and is frequented by tourists who stream in by the busload, but for people who look for authentic travel experiences rather than jumping from cellar door to cellar door, there are pockets of surprises to be enjoyed – at your own pace. Like most of France, food and wine play a big part in the region’s overall experiences and so here are three destinations to visit for the ultimate gastronome experience in Provence and surrounding regions, without the gun-ho touristy vibe you find in Avignon.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape, from France’s Rhone Valley, has always been in the shadow of bigger names like Bordeaux and Burgundy, but if you have an affinity for seeking out fine wines, the premier wine region located in Provence is worth visiting for their aromas and flavours, reminiscent of a stroll in your favourite Provencal farmers’ market. There are 13 different grape varieties authorised in producing wine from Châteauneuf-du-Pape, with Grenache noir the main grape variety and further balanced out with Syrah and Cinsault to produce a great red for every occasion. With more than 300 wine growers in the region, Chateau Mont-Redon is the one to visit with their 100-year anniversary this year – celebrating history, legacy and longevity through great sips of wines on a family-run estate. The Fabre-Abeille family are a multi-generation wine-producing family with two cousins, Pierre and Aurelie, now leading the charge. Reds are their strong point with Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Plateau symbolising the very best caviar of grapes used to make Mont-Redons signature fine wines. Recent acquisitions by Mont Redon include Domaine de L'Oratoire St. Martian which has allowed Pierre to reimagine his family estate into a more sustainable and organic direction.
Chem. de Maucoil, 84230 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, France
Nearby: Visit Courthezon mediaeval town which dates back to 6000BC and is one of the oldest peasant villages in Europe or take a short trip to Orange to view old-world Roman architectural beauties, with less crowds during the lead-up to the summer.
Located in the city centre of Châteauneuf-du-Pape is Restaurant La Mere Germaine. Considered one of the outstanding high-end dining experiences in Provence which headlines a series of intimate one-Michelin-star restaurants in the region, the fine-dining restaurant with Chef Christophe Hardiquest is both historical and delicious for food and wine lovers.
Attached to the restaurant is the recently opened boutique hotel of the same name, La Mere Germaine, which houses a beautiful history and homage to N7 – where Parisians would stop for the night and indulge in one of the original inns on their way down to the south of France. Owners Isabelle and Arnaud Strasser are true food and wine lovers at heart, and share their own wines from their estates like Domaine La Milliere, which can be experienced through a solid food and wine menu headed up by sommelier Boris Laurent. Opened in 1922 and listed in the Michelin Guide in 1932, the restaurant remains a gastronomes destination to this day, and is an enjoyable place to experience fine French hospitality, excellent wine from the region and local ingredients.
3 Rue Commandant Lemaître, 84230 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, France
Nearby: Take a self-guided tour around the Castle of Châteauneuf-du-Pape before indulging in some sweet treats at Le Comptoir de la Germaine with stunning views of the region. Be sure to ask for Domaine de Coyeux muscat to pair with your desserts – a real winner in a region known for reds.
Sometimes it is not the destination but the journey that defines the trip, but in the case of Chateau de Montcaud, it is definitely the destination. Sitting on more than 5 hectares of well-groomed land, the château can be seen from afar, however, there is definitely a level of charm, sophistication and understated luxury oozing out from the garden and château walls that are Montcaud. Oddly enough, Château de Montcaud has always been a fixture in Southern France and dates back to 1848 when silk trading was at a peak, however, the stately home built by Alexandre Eugene Collain is not overrun with tourists as other nearby French properties on the other side of the Rhone River are. Stop anyone on the street and ask for directions, as I did when I got lost exploring the nearby vineyards on two wheels, and be greeted with blank stares – this makes Château de Montcaud a hidden jewel for people who want “luxe de la simplicite”, as owners Andrea and Rolf Bertschi want you to experience. The Bertschi family are hands-on hoteliers who openly share their tips for great adventures around their château like visiting Chene Bleu vineyard on the other side of Mont Ventoux, however, food lovers need not travel far with the hotel boasting a great restaurant with their fine-dining Le Cèdre de Montcaud by Chef Matthieu Herve. Much like the hidden château, this chef will be the one to watch as the château becomes more popular among gourmets and seen as a food-lovers destination – as it rightly deserves. The Normandy-born chef manages to find a nice balance between Normandy and Provence-style dishes with flair, and will no doubt be in the French Food Guide (aka Michelin) later this year if my predictions remain to be on point!
Château de Montcaud, 30200 Sabran, France
Nearby: Nature is at your doorstep and it is hard to leave the grounds of Château de Montcaud, but if you have to, definitely visit the UNESCO listed Pont du Gard.
