Rome was known for its lavish revelries in ancient times. These days, things are more civilised with innovative chefs vying for the attention of gourmets.
The small parcels called fagottelli exude a beguiling aroma of crispy fried pork cheek and grated sheep's cheese. When you cut the parcels, a creamy egg-cheese mixture flows out to combine with the dough and the pork cheek to form a tasty whole.
Fagottelli Pergola is Heinz Beck's interpretation of the well-known spaghetti carbonara. Instead of putting the egg and cheese sauce over the pasta, Beck has turned the outside in – filling pockets with the sauce. His variation also adds whipped cream to the filling. In the original recipe only egg yolk, grated sheep's cheese (not Parmesan!), pepper and smoked pork cheek are used for the sauce. La Pergola, Heinz Beck's place of work, is on the 9th floor of the luxurious Cavalieri Waldorf hotel.
The restaurant impresses with its elegant ambience, exquisite antiques and panoramic view over Rome and the Vatican. Under the direction of Beck, it has held three Michelin stars since 2005, the first and only restaurant in Rome to receive this distinction. Beck himself comes from Friedrichshafen on Lake Constance and after working at Colombi in Freiburg and Tantris in Munich, he took over La Pergola in 1994. The German was, at first, eyed somewhat sceptically by the Roman public. But soon came the first, then the second and finally the third star.
Since Heinz Beck has even published a cookbook on pasta, raising the Italian national dish to the level of haute cuisine, he is appreciated in the Eternal City as an absolute master of his trade. The chef greets many of his guests personally, easily switching from Italian to German or English. He draws inspiration for his dishes from many of the world's cuisines, but the common thread is unmistakably Italian. The ten-course tasting menu is accompanied by a skilful wine selection by sommelier Marco Reitano. The food, wines, service and view of the city are a cinema of pleasures.
A noble restaurant in the city centre is Da Pipero. The room is decorated in subtle pastel shades, calm and clear. Patron Alessandro Pipero values precision and the highest quality. The service runs as precisely as a Swiss watch. With Pipero al Rex, he already had a star restaurant. In 2017, he opened the new Pipero. In the kitchen, young Ciro Scamardella creates dishes that are unmistakably inspired by the classics, but are more refined and sophisticated. The carbonara here is completely different to that of La Pergola, but also different to the traditional trattorias. The wine list is well sorted, and Da Pipero also offers a pleasing number of wines by the glass.
Retrobottega offers an exciting contrast to the refined and elegant Da Pipero. The kitchen is open and the guests are spread over two large tables where everyone sits together. The furnishings are minimalist and the room is decorated in dark tones. The chefs and owners, Giuseppe Lo Iudice and Alessandro Miocchi, have realised their idea of an eatery here. At Retrobottega you don't have a normal meal, you come here if you are looking for a culinary experience. In the evening, there are two menus to choose from, one with meat and fish, the other vegetarian. The combinations are daring, such as "caviar, pickled radishes and almonds" or "heart, spring onions and tomatoes", but work very well. The extensive wine list, with a focus on Champagnes from small houses and producers from all over Italy, makes an evening at the restaurant a real pleasure. In the parallel alley, there is the complementary RetroVino, run by the same team. There you can taste all kinds of exciting wines with small appetisers from noon until two in the morning. The focus is clearly on natural wines, but there are also some classics.
Paola, a former bank manager, her friend Chiara, and their respective daughters Flaminia and Alice – form the heart of the team at Pianostrada Laboratorio di Cucina in a winding corner in the centre of Rome. The ambience is lively, metropolitan and refreshingly unconventional. In addition to its many small tables, you can sit at the counter, which highly recommended. It's a pleasure to sit and watch the kitchen team prepare one dish after another and still remain relaxed even under stress. The highlight is definitely the pasta dishes.
Armando al Pantheon is one of the classics among the city's trattorias. The Gargioli family has been running the restaurant since the 1960s and – despite its location right next to the Pantheon – has successfully resisted the temptation to turn it into restaurant for tourists. You'll find them here, too, but also many Romans who come to enjoy the great classics. And sometimes celebrity chef Heinz Beck, who greatly appreciates Armando for its authentic cuisine, also mingles with the guests.
Winegrowing is a tradition in Rome that goes back thousands of years. Nevertheless, it has only had its own designation of origin since 2011. Roma DOC comes in three varieties: as a white wine cuvée (at least 50 percent Malvasia del Lazio, plus other local varieties), pure as Malvasia Puntinata or as Bellone (both are also white), and as a rosé or red wine. A Roma DOC Rosso must contain at least 50 percent Montepulciano, the remainder can consist of the local varieties Cesanese, Cesanese di Affile or Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc or Syrah. The most famous wine in Rome is white Frascati. It is grown in the Castelli Romani, a landscape just outside the city. Around the Lago Albano and Lago di Nemi volcanic lakes are some picturesque places worth visiting. The most famous is Castel Gandolfo, the summer residence of the Pope. But Frascati, Marino, Grottaferrata and Velletri are also charming. Near the latter is the Ômina Romana winery, which produces excellent wines. Other recommended wineries in the area are Castel de Paoli, De Sanctis or Colle Picchioni.
W Hotel Rome
Newly opened luxury hotel of the Marriott Group, not far from the Spanish Steps. Dignified and stylish. Its Giano restaurant is run by the Sicilian two-star chef Ciccio Sultano.
Via Liguria, 26/36, 00187 Rome
T: +39 6 894121, marriott.it
Fendi Private Suite
Seven exclusive suites in a palazzo in the central Via Condotti. The Fendi Flagship Boutique is on the ground floor.
Via della Fontanella di Borghese, 48, 00186 Rome
T: +39 6 97798080, fendiprivatesuites.com
Hotel Raphael
One street away from Piazza Navona, this property has luxurious rooms with marble bathrooms and parquet floors. The roof terrace offers panoramic views over Rome, from St. Peter's Basilica to the Pantheon. Some rooms were designed by the architect Richard Meier.
Largo Febo, 2, 00186 Rome
T: +39 6 682831, biohotelraphael.com
La Pergola (Heinz Beck)***
A German showing Italian cuisine to the Romans? It seems impossible, but Heinz Beck has done it. On the roof terrace of the Cavalieri Waldorf Astoria he delights with his fine creation and sommelier Marco Reitano always finds the right wine to go with it.
Via Alberto Cadlolo, 101, 00136 Rome
T: +39 6 3509215, romecavalieri.com
Il Pagliaccio**
Anthony Genovese calls his cuisine a "circus of flavours". Born and raised in France to Calabrian parents, Genovese draws inspiration from all over the world: Italy, France and a dash of Asia make a great combination.
Via dei Banchi Vecchi, 129/a, 00186 Rome
T: +39 6 68809595, ristoranteilpagliaccio.com
Acquolina*
Fine dining restaurant in the first Roma Arte hotel in the heart of the city. The Mediterranean and its culinary traditions are at the centre of Daniele Lippi's cuisine. There is fish first and foremost, but also lots of vegetables and meat.
Via del Vantaggio, 14, 00186 Rome
T: +39 6 3201590, acquolinaristorante.it
Aroma Restaurant*
Elegant dining with a direct view of the Colosseum? It's possible at Aroma Restaurant! On the roof terrace of the luxurious Palazzo Manfredi, chef Giuseppe Di Iorio brings delicious dishes to the table.
Via Labicana, 125, 00184 Rome
T: +39 6 97615109, aromarestaurant.it
Enoteca La Torre*
Noble restaurant in the fine Villa Laetizia. Domenico Stile, who was born in 1989, is the youngest star chef in the capital. Creative cuisine at the highest level.
Lungotevere delle Armi, 23, 00195 Rome
T: +39 6 45668304, enotecalatorreroma.com
Glass Hostaria*
Cristina Bowerman is one of Italy's best-known chefs. In the heart of the popular Trastevere district, where hearty, original cuisine rules, she brings refined, fine dishes to the table in the refined ambience of her Glass Hostaria.
Vicolo del Cinque, 58, 00153 Rome
T: +39 6 58335903, glasshostaria.it
Il Convivio Troiani*
Somewhat hidden in a winding alley not far from Piazza Navona. The menu features classics of Roman cuisine, reinterpreted. In addition to an Amatriciana, there is also a sweet version of the popular Carbonara. Very extensive wine list.
Vicolo dei Soldati, 31, 00186 Rome
T: +39 6 6869432, ilconviviotroiani.it
Marco Martini Restaurant*
Enjoyable dining in an enchanting winter garden. Marco Martini's cuisine is creative, sometimes a little cheeky. All in all, it is refreshingly new. Extensive wine list with a focus on biodynamic wines.
Viale Aventino, 121, 00153 Rome
T: +39 6 45597350, marcomartinichef.com
Moma*
A restaurant with two souls: a bistro with a small menu at lunchtime and a restaurant with a fine tasting menu in the evening. Moma can convince in both iterations. Select produce, a good wine selection and attentive service round off the whole experience.
Via di S. Basilio, 42, 00187 Rome
T: +39 6 42011798, ristorantemoma.it
Pipero*
The young chef Ciro Scamardella presents cuisine that is strongly oriented towards his native Campania. But Roman classics like a fantastic carbonara are also available. Very good wine list.
Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 250, 00186 Rome
T: +39 6 68139022, piperoroma.it
Zia Restaurant*
Young, fresh and a little colourful is how this restaurant presents itself. Young couple, Antonio (in the kitchen) and Ida (in the dining room) and their dedicated youthful team have made Zia a popular meeting place for Romans and visitors.
Via Goffredo Mameli, 45, 00153 Rome
T: +39 6 23488093, ziarestaurant.com
Retrobottega
A minimalist restaurant where guests are seated at two large tables. The two chefs, Giuseppe Lo Iudice and Alessandro Miocchi, focus on dishes in which the quality of the basic products is expressed. Extensive wine list.
Via della Stelletta, 4, 00186 Rome
T: +39 6 68136310, retro-bottega.com
Pianostrada Laboratorio
Run by two women and their daughters, the restaurant has become a popular meeting place. Excellent focaccia, which is always freshly baked, and great pasta dishes. A seat at the counter is recommended.
Via delle Zoccolette, 22, 00186 Rome
T: +39 6 89572296
Baccano
Popular restaurant near the Fontana di Trevi with reliably high quality. Very good pasta and fish dishes.
Via delle Muratte, 23, 00187 Rome
T: +39 6 69941166, baccanoroma.com
Hostaria Grappolo d’Oro
If you love classic Roman cuisine, you can't miss this restaurant. Spaghetti Carbonara, Rigatoni alla Amatriciana, Agnello alla Romana: everything tastes great here.
Piazza della Cancelleria, 80, 00186 Rome
T: +39 6 6897080, hosteriagrappolodoro.it
Trattoria da Lucia
Traditional trattoria in the lively Trastevere district. A concise menu with many Roman classics. Hearty and reliable.
Vicolo del Mattonato, 2b, 00153 Rome
T: +39 6 5803601
Colline Emiliane
The Latini family hails from Emilia and runs this popular restaurant not far from Piazza Barberini. Here you can find freshly made pasta, delicious lasagne, tortellini in broth, hand-cut tagliatelle with tomato sauce and much more.
Via degli Avignonesi, 22, 00187 Rome
T: +39 6 4817538, collineemiliane.com
Armando al Pantheon
Classic Roman trattoria right by the Pantheon. Run by the third generation of the Gargioli family. Many tried-and-tested Roman dishes, with a good wine selection.
Salita de’ Crescenzi, 31, 00186 Rome
T: +39 6 68803034, armandoalpantheon.it
Trattoria Da Danilo
Somewhat hidden away, but worth finding. The walls of the restaurant are full of photos of famous people who have eaten here. Extensive wine list with a focus on Lazio, Tuscany and Piedmont.
Via Mastro Giorgio, 29, 00153 Rome
T: +39 6 5746800, trattoriadadanilo.com
Osteria Da Fortunata
Popular trattoria with a wide range of freshly made pasta.
Via del Pellegrino, 11/12, 00186 Rome
T: +39 6 60667391, osteriadafortunata.it
Da Luciano
The owner of the restaurant, Luciano Monsilio, calls himself the "king of carbonara". If you don't believe him, you should try it. The interior is a bit sparse, but the dishes are very good.
Delicious tiramisu.
Piazza del Teatro di Pompeo, 18, 00186 Rome
T: +39 6 51531465, ristorantedaluciano.it
Enoteca Ferrara Ristorante
This place is divided into a restaurant with an extensive menu and a wine bar where small bites are served. Wine plays an important role in both. In the heart of the lively Trastevere district.
Piazza Trilussa, 41, 00153 Rome
T: +39 6 58333920, enotecaferrara.com
Enoteca Cul de Sac
The narrow enoteca near the parliament has been around since 1977 and is thus the model for many of today's wine bars in Italy. The numerous wines are arranged by region on long shelves, the advice is competent. Very good small dishes.
Piazza di Pasquino, 73, 00186 Rome
T: +39 6 68801094, enotecaculdesacroma.it
Salumeria & Rimessa Roscioli
Roscioli has grown into a true world of pleasure over the years. In the main shop, Salumeria, there is a rich selection of delicatessen products and wines, but you can also eat very well on the premises. Wine-tasting dinners are held regularly in Rimessa.
Via dei Giubbonari, 21, 00186 Rome
T: +39 6 6875287, roscioli.com
Latteria Trastevere
Where milk used to be sold, wine now plays the main role. Here you will find a rich selection, mainly from small producers, with a focus on organic and biodynamic. Delicious small dishes are served with it.
Vicolo della Scala, 1, 00153 Rome
T: +39 6 58332008
W Lounge
Trendy bar in the new, chic W Hotel Rome, not far from the Spanish Steps. Many exciting cocktails, also a good wine selection with a focus on natural wines. Regular DJ sets. In summer, the rooftop bar is an attraction.
Via Liguria, 26-36, 00187 Rome
T: +39 6 894121, marriott.it
