Telmo Rodriguez is something of a shining light in Spanish viticulture. Not only because he produces first-class wines wherever he appears, such as at the Rioja vineyard Remelluri, but also because he has saved numerous old, overgrown and neglected, but nevertheless very high-quality vineyards from being cleared and rescued them from oblivion. Sometimes he was simply helped by chance. On a rally with a friend, he discovered an untouched vineyard in the Sierra de Gredos in the far south of Castillo y Léon, where the north of Spain merges into the south, with very old vines at well over 900 meters above sea level. Telmo Rodriguez was immediately fascinated by these 80-year-old vines of the Garnacha variety, which had probably not been cultivated for decades and had therefore not come into contact with any chemical or systemic agents. And so, in 1999, he decided to enter into a joint venture with his friend, who had the "wherewithal" and Telmo Rodriguez had his ingenious oenological know-how. And the two of them are now wringing extremely remarkable wines from this barren and challenging landscape. The landscape continues to be spared all chemical means, as the vineyard is cultivated according to the criteria of organic viticulture. The grapes are harvested by hand in small crates, and oak barrels, stainless steel tanks and clay amphorae are used in the cellar. Here the Garnacha can prove what it is capable of with very low yields from these ancient vines and under the direction of Telmo Rodriguez. The wines are deep, fruity and have immense ageing potential. For all their power, they are elegant, rich in finesse and endowed with a mineral freshness - in a word, they are enormously exciting. And this has earned this remote corner of Castillo y Léon its own provenance - the DO Ceberos. It may still be unknown, but with these wines behind it, that is likely to change quickly.
