An intimate 15-seat counter, a deeply personal story, and a chef shaped by fashion, travel, and experiences. Umenoya brings a new level of precision and emotion to Malmö’s dining scene.
Malmö’s food scene just became more exciting. With the opening of Umenoya, just 15 guests per seating are invited to experience Japanese cuisine through an intimate omakase format. Behind the counter, chef Takao Fujii presents a deeply personal interpretation of his craft, creating each dish from scratch and following his own path, while drawing on his skills and past experiences.
The opening comes at a time of transition in Malmö. Award-winning sushi chef Pontus Johansson recently announced the closure of his restaurant Saikō, the result of several challenges. Among them were costly renovations to create an omakase-style bar, where he could personally serve his finest dishes. Yet, despite the bar being completed, unforeseen staff illness prevented him from operating it as intended.
At the same time, Umenoya emerges, built entirely around the omakase experience. But Takao’s journey to open an omakase-style restaurant in Malmö is anything but conventional. From Hiroshima to the fashion capitals of Tokyo and Paris, through world travels and moments of self-discovery, he gradually shaped the dream that would ultimately become Umenoya.
The name Umenoya carries both cultural and personal meaning. While it references a place associated with the Japanese plum liqueur umeshu, it is foremost a tribute to Takao’s grandmother, who was diagnosed with Alzheimer’s two decades ago.
My grandmother doesn’t remember much anymore. But she remembers her restaurant Umenoya dating 80 years back. She remembers what she cooked, and the joy of inviting people in. There were always five or six neighbors there. This is my homage to her, and I want to bring that same warmth into this restaurant.
Takao Fujii
Takao Fujii
Takao’s path into cooking began later in life. After studying art and design in Tokyo, he built a career in the fashion industry, working in both Tokyo and Paris. But years of intense work led to burnout, prompting him to return to Hiroshima to recover.
There, a simple daily ritual changed everything. Each morning, he began making miso soup for his family experimenting with different stocks and ingredients as a form of meditation. When he served it to his grandmother, her reaction became a turning point. Her smile, and her praise, sparked something deeper. It set him on a new path.
Takao enrolled in culinary school in Osaka and began working in kitchens across Japan. His curiosity soon took him abroad again, first to Italy, where he worked in a Michelin-starred restaurant, and later to Milan, joining Nobu. It was there he found a sense of belonging, before moving on once more. This time to Sicily, where he met his partner.
In 2022, in the wake of the pandemic, Takao and his partner decided it was time for a change. After sending over 50 job applications worldwide, one response stood out from chef Coulter McAbery at Malmö’s casual sushi spot Sushibaren, which also offers an omakase experience alongside its regular menu.
After relocating to Sweden to work at the restaurant, Takao began shaping his own ideas. Through Sunday pop-ups, he refined his concept. It was during this period he met architect Jonas Lindvall, known for designing restaurants such as Saltimporten Canteen, Sture and Bloom in the Park. A shared fascination with Japanese dining culture led to a partnership, and ultimately, Umenoya.
Support also came from Niklas and Joakim of the well-regarded seafood restaurant Johan P, where Takao hosted a pop-up as recently as December, testing and adjusting his menu based on guest feedback.
Takao’s cooking philosophy is rooted in balance and restraint. He avoids refined sugar, instead building sweetness through ingredients like fruit, rice, and mirin. Acidity plays a central role, often expressed through fermented elements.
Each seating consists of around 11 courses, with recurring elements such as house-made koji, soy-based preparations, tea infusions, and carefully calibrated vinegars.
Sommelier Niclas Perchun approaches the beverage pairing with a similar mindset seeking harmony between the delicate flavors of the food and the structure of the wines, embracing the challenge of pairing within such a nuanced format.
Takao’s creative process is holistic. From selecting ingredients to designing the plating, every detail is intentional and his background in fashion is evident. Not only in the composition of each dish, but in the tactile experience of the tableware, sourced both from Japan and local Swedish ceramicists.
Texture, movement, and a sense of quiet performance are recurring themes.
At its core, Umenoya is about connection. For Takao, the restaurant is a continuation of his grandmother’s legacy to be a place where food brings people together.
I want to share my philosophy and challenge how people see Japanese cuisine. Even in Japan, things are evolving quickly. I want to bring that same progression here combining local ingredients, with a Japanese mindset.
Takao Fujii
Takao Fujii
One thing feels certain: his grandmother would be proud.
Umenoya
Västergatan 18A
211 21 Malmö
Sweden
