The "Bundesbüdchen" in Bonn was once the most legendary meeting place for politicians in the former Federal Republic. Now it is celebrating its revival in Berlin's government district - with fermented kimchi with Allgäu spaetzle, sourdough bread with sweet cream butter and lovage seasoning or chicken liver parfait in Roscoff onions. The owner of the Berlin replica, Jochen Thoss, has faithfully recreated the premises. From the outside, it looks like a scaled-down version of the Bonn original: an oval pavilion that combines kiosk charm with modern pop art. Inside, 70s nostalgia meets clear design. Johann Maier, who most recently worked at "Cordobar" and "Oh, Panama", two Berlin businesses, and until 2015 at "Mraz & Sohn" in Vienna, reinterprets traditional German recipes by combining influences from different regions: Blood sausage dumplings with caramelized Bavarian cabbage, Obazda with wasabi rocket and radishes, char marinated in buttermilk garum, with freshly grated horseradish and lemon zest, iced apricot dumplings with caramelized pistachios, panko crumbs and an oil made from fig leaves. Aromatically precise, without frills - but with an elegance that makes this cuisine seem contemporary again. The wine pairing is also successful: Natural wines - including some from Germany and Austria - complement the dishes perfectly. There are also various regional beers such as Meckatzer from the Allgäu as well as spectacular cocktails and non-alcoholic options. The service is attentive - but adds just the right amount of capital city nonchalance to the atmosphere.
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