Standing still means falling behind? Nonsense! David Heimer was certainly the more creative, bolder chef than Lukas Zehnder is. But does that mean people are less likely to go to “Josef” now? Definitely not. The restaurant right next to Zurich’s infamous Langstrasse is and remains a cult favorite. It’s a wild place—quite dark, sometimes a bit loud—and the bar in the middle of the restaurant adds to the lively atmosphere. Precisely because “Josef” is already so flamboyant, it doesn’t need a cuisine that requires an introduction or explanation. White asparagus with confit king crab and shellfish bisque. Morel and Parmesan tart with a braised onion beurre blanc. Charcoal-grilled guinea fowl with mustard sauce, herb-infused oyster mushrooms, and parsley. It’s all somewhere between good bistro cuisine and fine dining. Great ingredients, cooked with precision, generous portions. The dishes aren’t overly challenging, yet they’re exciting. No pretentiousness. The five-course meal costs just 97 francs—what a bargain! The service is laid-back; the wine list ranges from bold natural wines to Burgundy Grand Cru. Or how about an equally excellent Negroni? To the left, a date night with a dog; to the right, a group in business attire; right behind them, four young women enjoying a very fun evening. And in the corner, a Swiss winemaker—not entirely unknown—who’s sharing an above-average amount of wine with his colleagues at the table. Later, he bridges the gap to the next table and invites the couple there to join in. And us? We order another morel and Parmesan tart for dessert. That’s “Josef” for you.
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