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Kluth – Restaurant

87
Falstaff Magazine Germany No. 9/2025 - Six pack

What has long been part of everyday life in the world's major cities is filling a gap in Cologne that hardly anyone has been aware of until now. Between street food spots and Michelin-starred restaurants, "Kluth" offers soulful market garden cuisine for which a target group is only gradually forming. The "Frohnatur" wine bar had previously tried its hand at the same address before Kevin Rademacher and "Kluth" co-founder Hannes Radeck took over the reins this summer. Both know each other from their time at "Ox&Klee" and together they have taken the path from luxury and performance to sustainability and approachability. Vegetable popcorn, porcini mushroom chawanmushi, coffee grounds shoyu, Nordic-casual coziness and music from the record player open the horizon for a new idea of contemporary gastronomy. Rademacher and Radeck only use whole animals - for example for for a lamb dish with red onion and black rice miso, in which various pieces of stewed meat melt into an intense ragout over hours. The heart, kidneys and lungs are salted, dried and smoked several times. Like bottarga, the preserved offal can be finely grated over the potato foam - a real firework of flavors. Top gastronomic finesse is also evident in the skill with which ricotta agnolotti are created from simple ingredients such as flour, water, lemon salt, wild berries and whey cheese - in a sauce that is at the same time frothy, earthy and delicious. at the same time frothy, earthy, deep and citrus-fresh.

45 /50 Food
17 /20 Service
16 /20 Wine
9 /10 Style
Sunday Opening
Payment Conditions: Cash, Debit Card, Credit Card, NFC
Gourmet-News
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