First a butcher's shop, then a pop-up and now a permanent "bistro and juice store": Lehmanns" serves constantly changing market cuisine, natural wines and ciders. The restaurant, whose white tiles are reminiscent of its former existence, is uncomplicated - no reservations are taken and the food is served on crockery from the Brockenhaus. Head chef Florian Stalder sources meat, vegetables and flour from regional, organic farmers and butchers. We start the evening with marinated olives and homemade bread with tzatziki. A glance at the wine list with almost 100 items reveals an unconventional concept: the wines are arranged according to direction and distance from the restaurant. One focus is on wines from the Swiss winegrowers' collective Satellites of Love, while there are also ciders from Heftig Cidre and interesting non-alcoholic alternatives such as a tart cuvée cassis or a lemony hop water. In addition to canned sardines, pickles, charcuterie and cheese for the aperitif, there are around ten dishes to choose from, which are easy to share. We opt for deep-fried quark balls served with a fruity tomato chutney. Served with polenta with plenty of cheese and chopped herbs. The eggplant cordon bleu served at the next table also looks tempting. But we leave some room for dessert: a cream slice, elegantly layered with millefeuille, berry jam and vanilla filling, and an oven-warm clafoutis with mirabelle plums. Our verdict: simple dishes that taste good and impress with the quality of their products.
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