Domingo S. Domingo's menu gets off to a brilliant start: with a tongue and horseradish tartelette, tartare with parmesan foam and a pea flan with coleslaw. It is accompanied by homemade focaccia and curry hummus. No meal here would be complete without the latter. If Dodo, as the chef likes to be called, were to remove it, there would be a riot. The "Mille Sens" started out in the Markthalle, but after it closed, Domingo and his business partner Urs Messerli moved to the restaurant in the Schweizerhof Passage. Even after 20 years in the business, the Australian-Filipino dual national still demonstrates his creativity in the kitchen. He manages to incorporate subtle surprises into many of his dishes. His home country is known for calamansi, which gives the food a delicate freshness. It starts in the glass: the house aperitif is a kalamansi spritz with Prosecco. This is followed by Alpine salmon, pickled radishes, pickled asparagus and flying fish roe. This is followed by Alpine pike-perch with gnocchi, macadamia, monk's beard and beurre noisette. And finally, a tender scampi with beurre blanc, puffed quinoa and asparagus from Kallnach. For the main course, Dodo has been using Wagyu from Boll for years. Today we have entrecôte, veal breast ragout braised overnight, market vegetables and mashed potatoes with spring herbs. Skilfully prepared, perfectly seasoned and subtly flavored with spices. The cheese plate looks like tidy art. And tastes like a talented farmer's craft. The finale is a delicious dessert with rhubarb, granola, ruby chocolate praline, sorbetto and espuma. Conclusion of the visit: Domingo leaves nothing to chance, except when he has to. Because his farewell treat is a crème brûlée.
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