Fabian Huber, head chef and co-owner of "Nice Dining" in Munich's Werksviertel district, describes the concept of the restaurant, which opened in August, as having its roots in pub cuisine, but wants to make it more refined here. And that's exactly what happens on the plates. Koji-matured organic beef from the topside is hand-cut. Fresh grapefruit is added as a creative ingredient, which, together with radicchio, adds a bold bitter note to the flavor. All of this is underpinned on the palate by an umami-deep, almost malty porcini mushroom mayonnaise. The coarsely chopped cubes of Schliersee salmon trout, prepared as ceviche, with egg yolk cream, radish, radish and apple, are also a real work of art. A sip of the acidic 2024 Kalk & Kreide Sauvignon Blanc from the Tement winery caps off the strong saltiness. And when the kitchen team places a firm-fleshed guinea fowl in the flavor spectrum of tart artichoke cream and sweet beets, sommelier Jon Diaz Lopez knows how to counter the power of the dish with a white Piedmontese (2022, Roagna, Bianco), a cuvée of Chardonnay and white-pressed Nebbiolo. The wine list is set to grow, but we can already see the outlines of where the journey is heading: there will be well-known greats and new discoveries from Europe, picking up individualists and classics - in all price ranges and vintage depths - so that the wines accompany a light lunch as well as an upscale dinner, a snack at the café and wine bar or an extra event in the plush Purple Séparée.
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