If there's one thing that Germans love almost as much as Italian cuisine, it's schnitzel, Kaiserschmarrn and the like. Unfortunately, the density of really good Austrians in this country is alarmingly low. At least in Stuttgart, this blank spot has now been eradicated. And it's not just any old thing: local cuisine tastes best when it really comes from the neighborhood. To put it bluntly: the Brunner family that runs the restaurant is genuinely Austrian - but has been firmly rooted in Stuttgart's gastronomy for decades. In Werner Brunner's case, it was love that brought him from Carinthia to the Ländle. His daughter Birgit runs the "Paulaner" in the Calwer quarter - and now granddaughter Ayleen and partner Jakob Transier serve specialties from the Alpine republic directly opposite. The kitchen director is Goran Lukic, who is already the culinary director at the neighboring "Paulaner". He manages the balancing act between the two establishments remarkably well: as a starter, the marinated char impressed with its fine texture and clear taste. Buttermilk and Granny Smith provided freshness, while horseradish added an elegant spiciness. For the main course, Wiener Schnitzel is of course a must. 38.90 euros may challenge the Swabian mind, but the butter-tender meat and fluffy breading justify the price. The potatoes: perfectly cooked and tossed in butter. Only the cucumber salad falls a little short - too coarsely chopped. Of course, Kaiserschmarrn is a must for dessert - fluffy, with beaten egg whites and topped with raisins. The service is friendly and professional. The wine list comprises a good 100 items, but the Austrian wines in particular could still gain in depth.
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