We are served a glass of Blanc de Blanc from France's oldest champagne house, Abelé 1757, in the lounge chairs at the Hotel and Restaurant Fiescherblick. Of the 2,500 bottles produced each year, an impressive 700 go to the Fiescherblick. This is accompanied by three delicious appetizers: radicchio tartelette, custard with kimchi carrots and shepherd's cheese and a mini taco with steamed pork cheek and white cabbage salad. The courteous service then takes us to our table in the open restaurant - with a view of the Eiger. Two amuse-bouches follow: lentil salad with kohlrabi and Granny Smith balls and shiitake gyoza with beurre blanc, which is now considered a signature dish. We are more impressed by the former. This is followed by a dish reminiscent of sushi, but wrapped in delicate Swiss salmon instead of seaweed, topped with herb salad, whitefish roe, herb sorbet and shiso dashi sauce. Chef Aurélien Mettler's preference for Japanese and French cuisine - and for acidity - is clearly noticeable. After the tender braised veal patties, a creative no-waste dish with pointed cabbage, spring onion pesto, fermented cabbage leaves, kale chips and cabbage sauce is a real explosion of flavors. The main course, dry-aged beef entrecôte with black salsify variaton, is overshadowed by the cabbage dish. However, the pre-dessert shines: yoghurt espuma, yuzu sorbet, meringue and quince soup form a refreshing combination. The main dessert goes one better: honey drills and honey espuma harmonize with buckwheat salad, ginger ice cream, ginger gel and candied ginger. A wonderful finale.
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