You couldn't find a more beautiful location here. You dine on the banks of the Lavant River with a view of the imposing town hall from an era when Wolfsberg was livelier than it is today. Chef Ralf Kollnitzer and host Patrick Kranl set out to revitalize the small town’s culinary scene. Kollnitzer once worked with the renowned Swiss chef Caminada; since their time with Vitus Winkler in Pongau, they’ve been working as a duo—first at the “Reiterhof Stückler” and now independently in Wolfsberg. Fine dining alone wouldn’t be economically viable here—everything from breakfast to lunch to bar food is covered. In the evenings, there are “surprise menus” featuring 4 to 8 courses (65 to 130 euros)—the motto “Local, affordable & authentic” is featured in a brochure with illustrations of the main ingredients. A display case of pickled goods showcases a penchant for fermentation. To start, a formidable gag: “Beamtenripperl”—a mini pretzel stick with Wildfang catfish liver sausage, mustard pickles, and mustard mayo. Kollnitzer Glundner (for the uninitiated: a sour cream cheese) is always on the menu—this time as ravioli with white chocolate, elderflower-whey sauce, smoked oil, radish, and apple, offering a sweet-and-sour flavor profile. A highlight: beef heart tartare on French toast with toasted hazelnuts, pickled kohlrabi, and beef-woodruff jus—surprisingly, heart is more popular in the region than tongue. The al dente duck breast and the delicate, thickly reduced pork knuckle ragout are complemented by beets and various raspberry elements, which provide a rather tart flavor profile. In addition to various selections from the small wine list, Kranl has also paired the dishes with cocktails. By far the most remarkable spot in the Lavant Valley.
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