You can sense when a chef arrives where his dishes were meant to go: away from foreign concepts and towards a cuisine based on gut feeling, memories and his own accents. This is the case with Nadav Kundel. After years in Berlin's nightlife scene, in his first own restaurant "Saint Farah" he cooks the way he eats, thinks and dreams. Together with his cousin Gil Azrielan, the chef has created a contemporary restaurant. The influence of the places that have shaped him - Tel Aviv, Berlin, a little bit of London - is palpable, but never as a copy. Rather as a condensation: the triple-fried fries in sambal butter sauce are simply delicious. The mezze set a clear, modern tone: mini cucumbers in parmesan miso caesar with citrus and chili seed crumble. A lightly fermented kohlrabi with hazelnut milk vinaigrette, a vegan mushroom paté with umami waves. Particularly successful. "Farah's grilled chard" - a contemporary variation on a dish from his grandmother with minced lamb in a chard leaf, grilled like bun cha and served with beet ketchup. The power of Saint Farah lies precisely in this interplay of memory and the present. The main courses - from mussels on pita bread and in a dense stock of rice wine, butter, bacon and chili crisp to mushrooms in ajo blanco sauce with sumac - also bear this signature: warm, modern, self-confident. Saint Farah is not another Levante copy with a grandmother's legend, but the first truly original chapter of a chef who has long worked for others. Now that he is true to himself, everything seems natural.
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