The old "Schlüssel" was a real gourmet restaurant: a manageable number of tables, a fine, not cheap menu, plenty of awards from the gastroguides ... The new "Schlüssel" wants to be something different. Tanja Grandits and her team have taken over, fine-tuned the concept and created a kind of Dorfbeiz 2.0, upmarket but by no means out of the ordinary. We noticed this as soon as we looked at the menu. The four-course lunch menu is available for 119 francs, while the five-course dinner starts at 129 francs. It's understandable that there can be no truffle-wagyu-caviar orgies for this price, but who needs supposed luxury products when green beans, quinoa, almonds and herb vinaigrette are transformed into such a fresh, invigorating starter? We were convinced and soon turned our attention to the parsley soup with sesame yoghurt and aniseed falafel, which conjured up the Orient on our plates. For the main course, we were spoilt for choice - it was neither spinach dumplings with meadow cumin nor venison schnitzel with juniper blue cabbage, but trout with lemon fennel and mashed potatoes; an Alsatian Muscat from François Schmitt was a perfect match. Speaking of drinks: really expensive bottles are the exception, but in return there are fine wines from Franz-Josef Eifel (Mosel) or Valdemonjas (Ribera del Duero). The Roederer champagne, a 2016, was so reasonably priced at 18 francs per deci that Zurich residents used to expensive wines should make the trip to Oberwil for this reason alone. The apple, pistachio and lemon thyme dessert is another reason why we would gladly return to the new super village restaurant any time.
Route
