A breath of fresh air at "Silk", the restaurant in Zurich's "Hotel Ambassador" just behind the Opera House: you can immediately tell that the new restaurant manager Manuela Ellmaier is keen to offer guests a good time. "Would you like to start with a drink at the bar or can I take you straight to your table?" Cordial and confident, as we appreciate. The trained sommelier previously worked in various large establishments, including "La Réserve Eden au Lac" in Zurich. Head chef Patrick Ansorge demonstrates his mastery of his craft right at the start of the evening: the highlight of the poultry velouté with spring vegetables and chive oil is the tender, intense poultry praline. The sashimi of Lostallo salmon is a little on the good side: carrot dressing, wild garlic mayonnaise, radish, baby lettuce, tapioca chips - it lacks acidity or perhaps even a little spiciness. More courage, please. Courage that Ansorge then clearly demonstrates with the vegetarian main course: Half a cauliflower, marinated and seasoned in an oriental-Mediterranean style, sits enthroned on a cauliflower puree, which finally has more bite than the cauliflower so often cooked to death that is usually served in this country. A little tip on the side: the wine list has one or two mature gems waiting for connoisseurs at a bargain price. Tarte Tatin with vanilla ice cream for dessert - it always works. Although we would rather have the ice cream scoop next to the apple pie than on top of it. A business dinner in a stylish ambience? Two nice dishes before an opera performance? A fine bottle of wine on a Monday evening? Then definitely go to the "Silk".
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