Asian fusion restaurants are as common in Cologne as candy during Carnival; for authentic Japanese cuisine, you used to have to drive all the way to Düsseldorf. Even though the Belgian Quarter will never be a Little Tokyo, things are changing. The latest addition is TOKI, whose kaiseki-inspired cuisine instantly transports you to the Land of the Rising Sun. Chef Hideyuki Takahashi focuses on a faithful interpretation of traditional haute cuisine, in which many small, carefully coordinated courses create the characteristic build-up of anticipation. Not only does the dramatic structure—which closely follows the classic sequence of palate-teasers, dashi soup, sashimi, and a main course that’s either crispy-fried, grilled, or braised—but also the aesthetic presentation demonstrate a keen sense of theatricality. After all, the master chef has over twenty years of experience. Yet despite a deep love for authenticity, he is willing to make concessions—evident, for example, in the sushi variation tailored for European palates, which complements the ritualistic menu with expertly seasoned raw fish and rice bites. The Wagyu short rib from Kagoshima brings sumptuous richness and a thick, glossy, umami-rich jus to the table. Ultimately, the main adjustment was made to the length of the highly seasonal menus: In Japan, a kaiseki meal can include up to 18 small plates served separately; at TOKI, the maximum is seven. With dishes as light as a feather—such as the fish broth with somen noodles, as delicate as enoki mushrooms, or the zensai platter featuring melt-in-your-mouth
shabu-shabu, miso-dressing-coated
seafood, and homemade corn tofu, you’d be happy to
stay a little longer here as well.
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