Restaurants come and go, changing owners and names. What “Hansen” owner Leo Doppler conceived in 2000—and which Sister Veronika and her husband Christian Domschitz later took over—has been going strong for 26 years. Architect Luigi Blau transformed the Burgtheater’s imperial carriage entrance into the “Vestibül.” In 2009, Domschitz came up with the idea of a “Viennese brasserie.” Now another step has been taken in this direction, brought to life by the formidable Christoph Schuch. After all, Domschitz hasn’t been in the kitchen for years. The smartest innovation: making Viennese cuisine “light.” Because the heartiness of many dishes usually makes it impossible to enjoy a multi-course meal. Outstanding: roasted wild boar served as a glazed roll with kimchi napa cabbage, ash nut, and local wasabi. Baked veal head is served with a fresh side of asparagus salad and Pommery mustard sauce. Fresh pasta is topped with shaved homemade “Viennese Alpine bottarga” made from smoked salmon trout roe—a dish we thoroughly enjoyed, even in a large portion. Most of the courses can be enjoyed in even smaller portions as part of a set menu. Also new: Snacks from the bar menu are available until just before midnight. A classic that some had forgotten is making a strong comeback.
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