Afghan cuisine and wines from the Old and New World - do they go together at all? Yes, as long as everyone involved knows what they are doing and what they are talking about. Tamara and Eni, the hosts of the inconspicuous "Zamarod" restaurant near Bern, obviously know this very well. Their wine list is much larger than usual in so-called ethnic gastronomy. Riesling from the US Charles Smith Winery is available, as is Pouilly-Fumé from Henri Bourgeois (CHF 10 per glass). And so far we've only talked about the wines by the glass, while the bottles are where things get really interesting. Fancy some Champagne from premium producer Charles Heidsieck (CHF 94)? Perhaps even a 2019 Dominus (CHF 490)? This kind of wine affinity is already evident in the bottle and glass decorations in the restaurant. Alcohol-free is of course also possible: with pomegranate juice from the Styrian fruit farm Retter. What you won't find is a huge selection of dishes - but we see that as a very positive thing, as it speaks for freshness. Described as an Afghan version of risotto, the dish called Shola, made from mung beans, rice and dill, served with salad and homemade bread (CHF 26 on the lunch menu) was convincingly flavourful, while the wonderfully fluffy steamed rice with saffron and barberries (CHF 24) was light and accompanied by powerfully seasoned spinach and potatoes. You could tell that the saffron ice cream with pistachios (CHF 6.-) and cardamom ice cream (CHF 6.-) were home-made; if we had wanted to order Sauternes with it, the chef would not have disappointed us, as it is also available. No wonder it's best to make a reservation here. Even at lunchtime.
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