The Best of »Falstaff Magazine Nordics 1/2026«

At Eleno by Martyn Meid, the experience begins in full view: The open kitchen faces a dining room set with white tablecloths and low lighting, creating a direct connection between guest and craft. There is no theatrical separation; the cooking is part of the room's rhythm. At the helm is Martynas Meidus, whose early career in London was shaped by a Nordic approach: daily-changing menus, strict seasonality, fermentation, curing, and an insistence on locality. His exploration of single ingredients in multiple textures formed the backbone of his style. At Eleno, that experimental energy has been refined into a more concentrated expression. The cooking rests on classical French foundations, informed by Japanese precision. Dishes are often built around three principal elements, handled with technical control and arranged without unnecessary garnish. While the compositions are restrained, the flavors are frequently elegantly rich, warm, and driven by umami. The opening course sets the tone. A signature foie gras with 19 spices offers depth and warmth rather than sweetness alone. A drop of caramel on the side adds roundness, and freshly baked rye bread anchors the plate with structure and aroma. It is a deliberate introduction - generous and layered. Onion soup balances sweet caramelized onion with milk-skin cream and a hint of licquorice. The combination moves between sweetness, savory depth, and subtle acidity and demonstrating the kitchen's control of contrast without excess. In a city that continues to develop its culinary identity, Eleno offers a clear and disciplined interpretation of contemporary fine dining.

With ESSE, American chef Matt Orlando has returned to Copenhagen. He previously operated the now-closed Amass and served as head chef at Noma. ESSE offers a single 12-course menu priced at DKK1,595. As at Amass, sustainability, optimal ingredient utilization, and a zero-waste philosophy define the kitchen. The menu includes fermented potato bread made from peelings - a signature from Amass - pumpkin hoisin crafted from pumpkin skins, noodles produced from fish bone flour, and taco shells also made from fish flour. ESSE does not focus on classic luxury ingredients such as lobster, scallops, or turbot. What stands out is the remarkable depth of flavor extracted from seemingly unpretentious ingredients. The glazed celeriac with apples, RIV cheese, and wild garlic capers delivered striking umami intensity. The fish course, saithe (or pollock), was presented in three stages; amid the many unconventional flavor combinations, one preparation featuring a sauce reminiscent of hollandaise offered a more classically French expression. Among the desserts was Matt Orlando's "chocolate" without chocolate, created using coffee beans and other ingredients. The result tasted intensely of chocolate. The wine list emphasizes modern producers, and there are numerous non-alcoholic options, particularly the restaurant's own beverages developed in collaboration with Muri. ESSE offers a dining experience unlike any other in Copenhagen. The dining room, a raw, high-ceilinged former industrial building, is an experience in itself.

At last, Heidi Bjerkan has opened her fine dining restaurant within the National Library in Oslo. Long anticipated, the return does not disappoint. Credo marks a full-circle moment. Alongside her bakery, lunch restaurant, bistro, and bar in the same building, this final addition feels like a homecoming. Fine dining is once again given its purest expression - and Bjerkan proves she has never truly stepped away from it. Her cuisine is ingredient-driven, assured, and elegantly restrained. Producers take center stage, vegetables are treated with reverence, and flavors unfold with balance and soft-spoken confidence. Each plate feels composed rather than constructed, guided by season and integrity rather than spectacle. Working closely with historians and researchers at the National Library, Bjerkan has also immersed herself in Norway's culinary past - from medieval cooking to bourgeois traditions. Struck by how generously spice was once used in Nordic kitchens, she gives a nod to this history at Credo, but discretely. If present, it appears only as a whisper: a subtle warmth, a barely perceptible lift that deepens rather than defines the dish. Humility defines both the cooking and the atmosphere. Sustainability runs as a red thread throughout - not as rhetoric, but as daily practice. In a time when responsible sourcing is increasingly complex, Bjerkan's commitment shines all the brighter. Set within one of Norway's most important cultural institutions, Credo feels purposeful and assured. It is less a comeback than a reaffirmation: of values, of craftsmanship, and of a cuisine rooted in respect.

Arguably the most remarkable restaurant opening in Copenhagen in 2025. Christoffer Sørensen's return following Restaurant Studio was highly anticipated, yet few expected the extent to which he would impress both guests and critics. The 20-course menu is divided into "Sea," "Field," and "Forest," with flavor intensity steadily building through the progression. Sørensen is often associated with bright, light, and occasionally delicate flavors. However, the menu also reveals darker, more concentrated expressions. These appear early on, notably in the squid with chicken skin, fermented cucumber, and coriander, as well as in the mushroom bouillon finished tableside in a flask. The penultimate savory course features confit duck egg with mushrooms, aged vegetables, and wild herbs, delivering profound umami depth. Twenty courses demand a certain appetite, yet each dish invites another bite. Nothing feels superfluous - every course has its place. Among the desserts, "The Rest of Our Bread" stands out, a modern interpretation of the classic Danish øllebrød made from the bread served earlier in the menu. Located in the historic setting of Christianshavn Rampart, part of Copenhagen's former fortifications, Restaurant Lille Mølle occupies a former windmill dating back to the late 18th century, once used to grind grain for the city and long considered one of the area's most distinctive landmarks. Carefully restored, the old mill lends the restaurant a rare sense of intimacy and continuity, where centuries of history frame a distinctly contemporary culinary expression. Restaurant Lille Mølle strongly suggests a future Michelin star, possibly two.

In 1873, construction began on a palatial building in the heart of Stockholm. It was built at the initiative of Dowager Queen Josephine in memory of the late King Oscar I. Various uses followed until the building was renovated and reopened in 2025 as Stockholm Stadshotell, a 32-room boutique hotel and restaurant destination. The "Stadshotell" moniker is a nod to the Swedish tradition of so naming a city's most prominent hotel. The dining room, Matsalen, is situated in the building's former chapel, which retains its original layout and architectural details. While high ceilings and large windows lend the room a light, airy feel, the peripheral couch seating and central bar provide a sense of relaxed intimacy. The culinary program - which includes the dining room, a bistro, and a downstairs bar - is under the leadership of chef Olle T. Cellton. Head Chef Kuba Koltowski oversees a menu that relies on local, seasonal ingredients but leans into French classicism. Expect more indulgence than at typical neo-bistros, with rich sauces or a portion of foie gras. The six-course tasting menu maintains this French influence, offering a substantial main course supported by snacks, starters, and dessert - and, as in any great French establishment, the cheese course is highly recommended. The wine list is exceptionally solid, with a classical leaning. A particularly thoughtful touch is the "extended selection" focusing on specific growers. However, even for wine lovers, the non-alcoholic offerings are not to be missed. Mostly made in-house, the kombuchas, teas, and juices are far more ambitious than those found in most Stockholm restaurants.

Since 2017, Restaurant Frank has been regarded as one of Copenhagen's leading luxury bistros and a destination that truly delivers value for money. It remains so today, now at a new address close to the original location, near Kongens Nytorv. The new space adds another layer to the experience. Large windows open towards the street creating a lively connection with the city outside. Inside, white tablecloths, warm tones and elegant details give the room a comforting yet refined atmosphere. Head Chef Anders Strier presents elegant bistro cuisine inspired by both the Mediterranean and Asia, particularly Japan. He also adds other international touches, for example in his deep-fried Gillardeau oyster topped with Sichuan pepper, Japanese mayonnaise, and red grapefruit. He also dresses oysters with marinades featuring mezcal, makrut lime, and Madagascar pepper. Guests may choose à la carte or a five-course menu priced at DKK675. From the à la carte options, the ceviche of dorade with grapefruit, fennel, caper berries, and bee pollen was vibrant and refreshing. The risotto with paleta mangalica (shoulder cut of pork), Marsala, and winter truffle delivered concentrated umami depth. For dessert, a lemon posset with olive oil sorbet, citrus salad, and Champagne provided a palate-cleansing finish. The wine list is exceptionally extensive for a mid-priced bistro. Many selections, particularly from Burgundy, are rarely available elsewhere, and pricing remains below average. For serious wine enthusiasts, Frank is among Copenhagen's strongest addresses.

The restaurant takes its name from the boreal zone - the northern forest belt shaping much of Finland's landscape - and its premise is straightforward: in a climate with a short growing season, preservation is necessity, not trend. The kitchen is led by Head Chef Pasha Demin, whose background includes time at Noma and leadership at several of Helsinki's top restaurants. The project is further shaped by a close circle of local "gastro enthusiasts" with a deep commitment to produce and producers, which is reflected in the restaurant's meticulous attention to detail. Designed by Treivas Architecture Bureau, the restaurant's dark, muted tones, and amber light create warmth, while natural materials dominate. Pendant lamps grown by the team from kombucha cellulose are a literal expression of the restaurant's philosophy. The menu evolves continuously, with larger shifts following the seasons, while technique remains constant. Fermentation, curing, drying, pickling, and smoking extend the harvest, building flavor through time. Acidity is driven by lacto-fermentation, depth by aging and controlled oxidation. The beverage program follows the same logic. The wine list highlights small European growers, with a lean towards natural and low-intervention producers. Non-alcoholic pairings draw on fermented berries, herbs, teas, and forest ingredients, developed with equal precision. Boreal stands apart in Helsinki by making preservation its primary identity rather than a supporting technique. Fermentation is not garnish but foundation, shaping sourcing, storage, and service. The result tastes like a Nordic winter pantry at its best: layered, precise, and defined by what has been saved and transformed.

It is easy to walk right past Vietnamese brasserie Madame Mei - only two small windows adorned with modestly sized logos next to a door give notice of the restaurant's location. Go through the door, follow the few steps down, and the space opens up into two warm dining rooms packed closely with tables. Visiting the restaurant when it is busy - which is most of the time as Madame Mei is the latest of Latvia's most glamorous restaurant group, The Catch Family - can give a very different impression from when it is quieter. When it is very busy, it has the atmosphere of a fast-food restaurant, with dishes arriving at speed, as soon as they are ready. Slower eaters may see the next dish arrive before they have finished their first, and diners with empty glasses will need to get the attention of wait staff to request a refill. However, when there are fewer customers, those same waiters demonstrate their extensive knowledge of the food and drink offerings. The excellent selection of teas and cocktails will tempt patrons to spend more time here. But whether fully booked or more quiet, the kitchen maintains the same standard: impeccably prepared dishes inspired by Indochine French cuisine and made from carefully selected ingredients. Madame Mei offers a good value-for-money dining experience, whether for a quick crispy pork belly báhn mì (Vietnamese baguette sandwich) or a warming bowl of pho (noodle soup), or a hedonistic evening sampling a wide range of dishes and drinks. Either way, diners will likely want to return.

With Grim, former Alchemist chef Casper Nielsen has opened a refreshingly unpretentious neighborhood restaurant rooted in personal history. The name may suggest rough edges, yet the space feels warm and welcoming, as does the culinary approach: honest cooking built around ingredients from his parents' small farm in Vendsyssel. Much of the produce arrives directly from Østergaard, and the vegetables, lamb, pork, and free-range chickens are often presented in their natural, imperfect form. This close connection to the land gives the kitchen a clear sense of identity and seasonality. It is an ingredient-driven approach shaped by respect rather than refinement for its own sake, with acidity and pickling recurring as subtle signatures that bring lift and structure. The skewers of meat from the farm are particularly memorable. Köfte with apple gel and mushroom powder delivers depth and brightness in equal measure, while lamb marinated in sesame and soy, finished with shaved truffle and elderflower capers, balances rustic generosity with a gentle touch of finesse. The flavors are bold yet grounded, allowing the produce to remain at the forefront. Grim offers accessible menus at approachable prices, creating space for both curiosity and comfort. The atmosphere encourages return visits rather than one-off pilgrimages. While the kitchen is still refining its voice and sharpening its balance, the direction is clear and confident. With strong produce, a compelling backstory, and genuine heart, Grim feels authentic rather than calculated. It avoids drama but resonates through sincerity - and that gentle assurance suggests it is well on its way to becoming a true local favorite.

Look out for the small sign next to the door of another restaurant at Sturegatan 6- Sperling & Co (reviewed above/below) - to find Tosto. Enter through that door, walk past the Sperling kitchen and the wardrobe, then follow the corridor to an almost-10-meter-tall space with concrete walls and eye-catching artworks. The room has a cocktail bar, a dining area, and a communal table for mingling, plus a dry-aging fridge filled with meats, fish, and charcuterie next to the open-plan kitchen. This is Tosto, the latest venture from Stureplansgruppen and chef Max Duhs, who is also behind popular wine bar Bâtard. Tosto is not a traditional Italian restaurant, but one that draws inspiration from Italy with playfulness, and love. The menu features Neapolitan-style pizza and pasta dishes with extra flavors and unexpected touches. The pasta, made fresh every day, competes with the best originals, and the charcuterie is mandatory as a starter. Main courses reflect Duhs' solid technical background coupled with an inventiveness and confidence in combining tastes and textures, elevating the experience far above what an ordinary trattoria can offer. The launch menu features a squid salad that draws on Italian, Nordic, and Asian influences, and a Brisket al Brodo that manages to be both heavy and light at the same time. As for desserts, any Instagram follower will already have seen the pancake tiramisu, which tastes as good as it looks. The wine list is extensive, offering a broad selection of Italian and French wines, with a decent selection by the glass of red, white, and sparkling options. The cocktails are also worth sampling, either separately at the bar or as an aperitivo.

Estonians have a reputation for being reserved and humble, and their restaurants tend to mirror this national temperament. Combining Northern restraint with Mediterranean warmth has become a successful restaurant formula: à la carte menus built largely around pasta and pizza, with a handful of signature dishes that are often, in fact, the best reason to visit. At first glance, Ugandi appears to follow this familiar script. Yet the resemblance is fleeting: Those who step inside soon discover a kitchen guided by a far more ambitious philosophy. The restaurant is particularly skilled at preparing lamb. Whole carcasses arrive at the kitchen and are butchered in-house, each cut thoughtfully prepared so that nothing is wasted. Recently, the team has gone even further: The restaurant now keeps a flock of 50 sheep on one of Estonia's most renowned farms, ensuring complete oversight from pasture to plate. The animals' diet, and the terrain on which they roam, translates into exceptionally flavored meat, which Head Chef Silver Illak further elevates on the plate. The same sense of place defines the restaurant's chanterelle dishes. Staff forage the prized mushrooms themselves in the forests surrounding Otepää, capturing the essential flavours of the region each season. The kitchen has many other gems beyond what is listed on the menu - make sure to ask the staff about these seasonally changing dishes. Drinks are also terroir-focused and unique, including those made in-house and sourced from small local producers. About once a month, Illak hosts dinners on the second floor of the restaurant, where he introduces his latest dishes or cooks together with a guest chef. Even more reasons to keep coming back.