With ESSE, American chef Matt Orlando has returned to Copenhagen. He previously operated the now-closed Amass and served as head chef at Noma. ESSE offers a single 12-course menu priced at DKK1,595. As at Amass, sustainability, optimal ingredient utilization, and a zero-waste philosophy define the kitchen. The menu includes fermented potato bread made from peelings - a signature from Amass - pumpkin hoisin crafted from pumpkin skins, noodles produced from fish bone flour, and taco shells also made from fish flour.
ESSE does not focus on classic luxury ingredients such as lobster, scallops, or turbot. What stands out is the remarkable depth of flavor extracted from seemingly unpretentious ingredients. The glazed celeriac with apples, RIV cheese, and wild garlic capers delivered striking umami intensity.
The fish course, saithe (or pollock), was presented in three stages; amid the many unconventional flavor combinations, one preparation featuring a sauce reminiscent of hollandaise offered a more classically French expression.
Among the desserts was Matt Orlando's "chocolate" without chocolate, created using coffee beans and other ingredients. The result tasted intensely of chocolate.
The wine list emphasizes modern producers, and there are numerous non-alcoholic options, particularly the restaurant's own beverages developed in collaboration with Muri.
ESSE offers a dining experience unlike any other in Copenhagen. The dining room, a raw, high-ceilinged former industrial building, is an experience in itself.
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