Sherry Shakes It Up - New Production Rules Ring in New Era
A Typical Sherry Bodega in Jerez, Spain
© shutterstock
A Typical Sherry Bodega in Jerez, Spain
© shutterstock
Old World wine regions have long been criticised for their rigid structures, archaic rules and adherence to regulations that are often at odds with the modern market. D.O. Jerez-Xérès-Sherry should definitely not be counted amongst that number.
Sherry has shaken itself up, for only the 6th time in its remarkable 86-year history. In an overwhelming display of cohesion, 19 vs. one votes within the regulatory body sealed a series of changes within the DO, or denominación de origin, its appellation framework. These are far ranging and impactful, from changing the zones of production and ageing to more clearly defining the sale of bulk wine. Here is a quick look at exactly what´s changed:
Farewell, Sherry Triangle
Easily the most dramatic of these changes is to adapt a single zone of production and ageing. Traditionally, the Sherry zone of production was spread across nine municipalities, but the ageing process could only ever take place within the so-called “Sherry Triangle” of the cities of El Puerto de Santa María, Sanlúcar de Barrameda and Jerez de la Frontera. This has now been merged into a single zone of both production and ageing, ending one of the most symbolic foundations of Sherry wine.
Unfortified Wines Join the Fray
A big first step for the DO is to permit unfortified wines to share the appellation status with the more traditional fortified wines. Unfortified wines from Jerez have captured the attention of palates around the world over recent years, and this is an important move to align them with the region more closely. As it stands, the wines must still reach 15% ABV and age for a minimum of two years, though future discussions will consider including younger, lighter wines as well.
Fresh, tangy Fino Sherry
© shutterstock
Manzanilla vs. Fino
There has long been a slight oddity in the rules of the DO. Wines made under biological conditions in the town of Sanlúcar de Barrameda qualify, uniquely, for the term Manzanilla, yet they were also previously permitted to be termed Fino de Sanlúcar with no real distinction between the two. This has now been addressed and there will be a ten-year period of grace to move Fino wines away to another location to continue ageing, should they wish to keep bottling it as a Fino Sherry.
New Order
Sherry is unlikely to arrive at our tables in anything less than a glass bottle, though locally it has long been a tradition to purchase it in bulk from a local bodega, arriving with your own empty bottle and having it filled directly from the barrel, often with little to no information about the wine being available.
New regulations will come into place to define this supply chain more strictly. Two- and five-litre PET containers have been authorised for use in hotels and for wine stores, whilst bag-in-box formats have been reserved exclusively for wines from Chiclana.
New Life
As part of a new focus, there will be a vineyard commission established with a number of objectives. Firstly, it aims to re-establish the realities and cost of vineyard management in Jerez, to ensure both quality and profitability for the growers.
There is also an aim to authorise indigenous grapes to be used in quality wine production, many of which have long flirted with extinction; keep an eye out for Mantúo Castellano, Mantúo de Pilas, Vejeriego, Perruno, Cañocazo and Beba.
Whilst many of these changes are small and specific in their own right, they add up to a real change in the way that Sherry seems to be moving. More importantly, it puts old, tired discussions to bed and allows the DO to move forward, to adapt to future challenges and to open further discussions around how Sherry should be seen on the world stage.
With one of the world’s greatest wines and a regulatory body that is very much on the same page, there is a lot to be optimistic about for the future of Sherry.
FIND OUT MORE
-
Wines from the Indian Subcontinent: The Nashik Valley in MaharashtraThe vine is a most adaptable plant – and thrives even in the subtropical heat of the Indian subcontinent. -
Germany's Devastating Flood in Ahr Wine Region: Winegrowers in the AftermathTwo weeks after the devastating flood in Germany's Ahr wine region, the full extent of the disaster becomes apparent.
-
English Wine Week: Danbury Ridge Wine Estate Shows Essex in Best LightEssex on the English North Sea coast shows much potential for still wines. -
English Wine Week: Three Blanc de Noirs English SparklersTo highlight English Wine Week, we present three English Blanc de Noirs sparkling wines – from Hampshire, Kent and Sussex. -
Urban Winery in London Releases Canned Wine SpritzerJust in time for English Wine Week, London’s first urban winery releases an English wine spritzer. -
Austrian Wine Marketing Board Releases Digital Vineyard MapThe Austrian Wine Marketing Board (AWMB) has released the world’s first digital wine atlas covering an entire wine-producing country. -
Cape Winemakers Guild Holds Online Auction for its Protégé ProgrammeWine lovers can bid for unique lots at the Cape Winemakers Guild online auction -
Food and Wine: The Eternal FrissonFalstaff’s man about town talks about a great love affair – that between food and wine. -
Textured Treasures: White Wines from Rhône Valley in FranceThe white wines of this southern French region may be overshadowed by the fame of the reds, but do not miss out on the white wines from the... -
Top Five Red Wines to Chill in SummerYes, you read that right, you can chill red wines: why restrict yourself to white and rosé? Some lighter styles of red wine are just made... -
How to pair wine with food? Six golden rules of wine and food pairingOur resident Master Sommelier gives his six golden rules for pairing wine with food. -
How to pair wine with vegetables?The world of vegetables is vast - and pairing a wine can be tricky. Here are some basics. -
How to pair wine with salad?Salads are and should be varied. We give you a handle on how to find the right wine. -
How to pair wine with steak?What wine with your steak? Here are the points to consider. -
How to pair wine with dessert?Pairing dessert with wine is something many shy away from. Yet there are heavenly wine pairings... -
How to pair wine with chocolate?Two of our favourite things: wine and chocolate. Here is how to pair them. -
How to pair wine with cheese?Cheese and wine are a killer combination. Here are some hints. -
How to pair wine with charcuterie?Falstaff has the best tips for pairing wine with charcuterie and other cold meats. -
Somm Challenge: Top Seven Wine Pairings for Cauliflower SteakCauliflower steak: We asked seven wine professionals for the perfect wine pairing for this recipe with a creamy artichoke sauce. -
Somm Challenge: Top Eight Wine Pairings for Crown Roast of LambSo simple, yet always a show-stopper: we asked eight top sommeliers which wines they recommend to go with a crown roast of lamb.
