Culinary Caorle: the Delights of Little Venice

The city of Caorle has big plans: previously known as a "working class beach", numerous investments in the hotel sector are moving the Venetian seaside resort upmarket. The opening of the five-star hotel The One near the historic center is the most visible sign of this new chapter, as well as the fact that on some weekends, Ferraris or Lamborghinis are prominently parked in front of the entrance. And while the building – an s eye-catching concrete cube – is architecturally debatable, the influx of luxury cars has certainly caught the attention of the many children (and parents) who have traditionally shaped the image of Caorle as a family destination. Either way: Whether you're a millionaire or a hundredaire, The One has a stylish restaurant on the first floor and the Skybar 360° and rooftop pool on the eighth floor, which offers a breathtaking view over the skyline and the sandy beach. Roughly 12 km long, the latter is divided into the wide, extremely shallow sandy bay Spiaggia levante in the east and the narrower Spiaggia Ponente in the west near the town, where the water reaches a comfortable depth for swimming more quickly.

Outside of the summer season, the Hotel International Beach is open all year round and is the premier address in the western part of the city – although several well-known Austrian winegrowers and their families also like to stay at the Elite in summer. Alongside the wellness resort Marina Verde, these hotels add a new touch of luxury and exclusivity to the stretch behind Ponente beach, despite the many souvenir shops.

Fish & Seafood

Some of the town's most popular fish restaurants can be found here: the Pic Nic at the mouth of the Livenza way to the west, the stylish but often overcrowded Al Postiglione (during the summer season, reservations are only possible until 18:30, then there's a line), and the Antico Petronia, which boasts the best fish risotto far and wide. The small fish restaurant Il Centrale on the harbor remains a local favorite, where even in high season the native dialect dominates. In addition to seafood, they also serve excellent tortelloni with ricotta – a tribute to the family's roots in Parma. Located not far from the quay, Bragozzi has been reccently taken over by the family that runs the boat service to Venice (it was quite tidy when we visited), while the legendary ex-patron Pasquale Cagiano has lavishly restored and converted the former Nappa right next to the cathedral. With its impressive display of freshly caught fish and seafood, a large terrace on Piazza San Pìo – perhaps the most beautiful square in Caorle – a good wine list and friendly waiters, the resurrected Nappa has quickly become the city's new place to be. Another great spot is the cozy wine bar Enoteca Enos,  whether you prefer a light snack of pata negra ham and a glass of wine or a proper meal with steaks from the charcoal grill, you can't go wrong here. Open until midnight, many patrons come here after dinner for a nightcap on the terrace.

Like nearby Grado, Caorle will likely never become a real gourmet stronghold. Fast food and greasy snacks are commonplace in most convenience stores. I recently went in search of some decent tramezzini after a quick look at unimpressive breakfast buffet at our not exactly intoxicating hotel. It was a real challenge, as there were only pre-packaged convenience store versions – at best. On a corner of the busy street three blocks away, I finally found the unspectacular Bar Andrea, a quiet neighborhood establishment. The owner makes tramezzini fresh several times a day in-house and serves freshly pressed spremuta and a good house espresso. Elsewhere in Italy this is the standard, but in the tourist resorts of the Adriatic it is increasingly the exception.

Traditional Pizzeria

Of coures, seafood isn't everything: At some point, you feel like having a really good pizza for a change. While the ever-popular Postiglione certainly delivers, the extremely long lines during high season make it hardly worth it – as with Da Michele in Naples. Families with children will feel at home in the friendly and comfortable Ae Do Rode (“The two wheels”). But recently, Caorle has announced a real culinary highlight: Raffaele di Stasio, the 2023 pizza world champion from near Monza, where he runs two pizzerias under the name Verace Assaje, has opened a new place here in 2024 under his own name. Serving pizzas from a wood-fired oven, Neapolitan fluffy and topped with classic or creative toppings, Di Stasio became an instant hit. They are so airy and “digeribili” (digestible) that you can even sample their magnificent antipasti beforehand: Firstly, the Fritto Partenopeo – a selection of the classic “sfizi” of Naples, only finer and lighter; secondly, the fist-sized Mozzarella di Bufala served at 22° C in a jar with a phenomenal sauce of Piennolo DOP tomatoes; and thirdly, the elegant Parmigianella di Melanzane in a flat pannacotta terrine. Raffaele di Stasio: Pizza e cucina contemporanea – Despite the simple ambience, everything is so contemporary, relaxed and sophisticated that the whole family can't stop thinking: “We have to go there again soon!”