Ancient cities, crystal-clear waters and a heady mix of European flavours can be found on the sunny Mediterranean islands of Malta.
Floating in the Mediterranean just south of Sicily, the archipelago of Malta may superficially be known for its sunny weather and clear waters popular with divers. However, Malta is an island nation steeped in history and culture, where Roman architecture sits next to Baroque, Italian flavours blend with Spanish and the friendly, 500,000-strong population hail from around the world.
Valletta may be Europe’s smallest capital, but this fortified city, which you can travel across in just fifteen minutes, more than packs a punch. Dating back to 1565, when the city was built in response to the Great Siege of Malta, this capital has hundreds of years’ worth of history to explore.
Begin your day by grabbing a coffee and pastry from one of the many cafés before exploring its smooth but steep streets - we recommend Café Cordina, one of Europe’s oldest coffee shops run by the fifth generation of the Cordina family. In the centre of Vallette is St. John’s Co-Cathedral, an incredible Baroque church from 1573, whose inside is covered almost top to bottom in glinting gold. You’ll also find one of the world’s rarest and most expensive paintings - Caravaggio’s largest signed work reported to be worth up to $150 million. A short walk from the cathedral (nothing is too far away in this compact city) are the Upper Barrakka Gardens, which are filled with greenery and offer panoramic views of Valletta’s harbour. Aim to arrive here for midday, and you’ll catch the daily cannon salute before heading off to lunch. Wander along Quarry Wharf to the Lower Gardens, or better yet, hop onto one of the many affordable e-scooters to reach Nenu the Artisan Baker. Opt for a Maltese ftira, traditional bread which is often topped with potatoes, tomatoes, olives, meat and herbs.
While admiring the view from the Barrakka Gardens, you may have spotted Valletta’s Three Cities of Birgu, Senglea and Bormla, which can be visited by boat. These three cities were the first to have been built by the knights of St. John when they arrived in Malta, and are steeped in history, feature beautiful architecture and waterfront views. Fort St. Angelo and the Inquisitor’s Palace should be first on the list to explore, and there are a plethora of cafes and wine bars to while away an afternoon. When night falls and hunger sets in, catch the bus or water taxi back to Valletta and get glammed up to dine at Noni. A Michelin-starred Maltese restaurant run by Chef Jonathan Brincant, Noni mixes local dishes with modern flavours and perfect presentation. The four-course menu includes a mouth-watering 30-day aged sirloin, handmade pasta and a Rabat strawberry tart.
The Maltese archipelago is made up of more than Malta alone. Spending a day soaking up the Mediterranean sunshine from a boat while getting to explore its sister islands of Gozo and Comino - popular for hiking, swimming, diving and more, is the perfect warm-weather day trip.
A short ferry trip will take you across the water from Valletta to Sliema, from where almost all of Malta’s cruises begin. Most boats set sail at around 9am and sail along Malta’s northern coastline, passing St. Julian’s, St. Paul’s Bay and Mellieha on the way. Trips often include complimentary or affordable drinks, or you can splash out on a private cruise to have wine and champagne at your disposal. Upon arrival in Gozo, make a beeline for Victoria's ancient, fortified city to explore its hilltop Citadel before ambling through the narrow, twisting streets. Malta’s location means Italian influences, flavours and restaurants are abundant. To satisfy a pizza or pasta craving, look no further than Ottavo Senso in Victoria for Italian comfort classics, which also happen to be the perfect stomach-settler for those with shaky sea legs.
Onwards to the tiny island of Comino, where, nestled into the western coast is the famous Blue Lagoon. Unsurprisingly named for the sapphire-blue water as clear as glass, dedicate the afternoon to swimming, sunbathing or sitting on the sandy white beach with a drink. There are five beaches in the area, all with soft sandy bottoms, backed by copper-tinged limestone cliffs and with plenty of water sport rental options in the area. For a scenic detour, make the short hike to the Crystal Lagoon, which has fewer crowds, superior beauty and natural caves for exploring. There are an abundance of food, drink and coffee stands at the Blue Lagoon, but save yourself for an evening meal after your return sailing to Sliema. Sliema is packed back-to-back with restaurants, bars and clubs, meaning you can step off the boat and into a great local eatery. Try Il-Merill, a family-run restaurant which is just a few steps from the waterfront down a quiet street. Traditional, handmade local food such as slow-cooked rabbit stew, freshly caught mussels and pasta with sheep’s cheese will make choosing what to have difficult.
Mdina, known as The Silent City, was the country’s capital in medieval times, although the city dates as far back as the 8th Century BC. Visiting Mdina is like stepping back in time, with cars banned from its tiny cobblestone streets and its towering city walls, Norman architecture and intact battlements offering the chance to explore living history.
Arrive via Malta’s easy-to-navigate local bus system, which takes just 30 minutes to arrive at Mdina’s majestic entranceway. To truly get a sense of the city, lose yourself in its enchanting alleyways; some are so narrow you can touch both sides. The colourful doorways, bright pink and purple flowers tumbling down the sand-coloured walls and flickering medieval street lamps have remained unchanged for thousands of years and offer the perfect photographer’s backdrop. Many of the shops in Mdina are souvenir shops, perfect for picking up some traditional blown glass or pottery to take home. The first major building you will stumble across is St. Paul’s Cathedral, a 17th-century church in Mdina’s main square, ornately decorated in coloured tiles and gold details. Afterwards, on the far side of the city, the bastions provide sweeping views over the countryside far below and there are several cafés where you can settle down in the sunshine with an ice-cold lemonade made with locally grown lemons.
For lunch, you may need a map to find the 17th Century Bacchus restaurant, hidden behind an iron port-cullis where you’ll dine inside original stone chambers. The menu is classic Mediterranean; the rabbit and truffle ragu and black garlic chicken are particular highlights, paired with a glass of white from their well-stocked cellar. To get the most out of your day and catch anything you may have missed, there are a plethora of walking tours taking in both Mdina and the adjoining city of Rabat that share local knowledge and legends. Back in Valletta with time to spare before flying home, enjoy a relaxed, early dinner at hole-in-the-wall restaurant Legligin. A word meaning ‘to glug a drink’, Leglinin is a cellar-turned-wine bar with vintages lining the stone walls and a seven-course tasting menu that changes daily at an impressively affordable €35pp.
Hotels
Casa Rocca Piccola
Grand Hotel Excelsior
Restaurants
Cafe Cordina
Nenu the Artisan Baker
Noni
Ottavo Senso
Il-Merill
Bacchus
Legligin
