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© Restaurant Tosto

Review of the day: Restaurant TOSTO - Stockholm, Sweden

Sweden
Restaurant
Gourmet

Behind an understated entrance on Sturegatan, Tosto unfolds as a vibrant stage for modern Italian cuisine. Chef Max Duhs combines technical finesse with playful creativity, elevating pizza, pasta, and bold flavors into a refined yet sociable dining experience.

Look out for the small sign next to the door of another restaurant at Sturegatan 6 – Sperling & Co – to find Tosto. Enter through that door, walk past the Sperling kitchen and the wardrobe, then follow the corridor to an almost 10-meter-tall space with concrete walls and eye-catching artworks.

The room has a cocktail bar, a dining area, and a communal table for mingling, plus a dry-aging fridge filled with meats, fish, and charcuterie next to the open-plan kitchen. This is Tosto, the latest venture from Stureplansgruppen and chef Max Duhs, who is also behind popular wine bar Bâtard.

Tosto is not a traditional Italian restaurant, but one that draws inspiration from Italy with playfulness and love. The menu features Neapolitan-style pizza and pasta dishes with extra flavors and unexpected touches. The pasta, made fresh every day, competes with the best originals, and the charcuterie is mandatory as a starter.

Main courses reflect Duhs’ solid technical background coupled with inventiveness and confidence in combining tastes and textures, elevating the experience far above what an ordinary trattoria can offer.

The launch menu features a squid salad that draws on Italian, Nordic, and Asian influences, and a Brisket al Brodo that manages to be both heavy and light at the same time. As for desserts, any Instagram follower will already have seen the pancake tiramisu, which tastes as good as it looks.

The wine list is extensive, offering a broad selection of Italian and French wines, with a decent selection by the glass of red, white, and sparkling options. The cocktails are also worth sampling, either separately at the bar or as an aperitivo.

Martin Backman
Author
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