In Istria, architects and vinophiles share a common goal, which is notable in the picturesque valley of Momjan, where the Kozlović winery is located. The attraction of a winery that was once the first eye-catching designer estate in the region is obvious, the impressive building created by the globally sought-after Zagreb star architect Željko Burić, who designed a 2,200-square-metre wine cellar on three floors, harmoniously embedded into the vineyard slope.

The underground cellar almost seems like a city in its own right, and upstairs in the open air, the view takes your breath away. Like an open panoramic bridge, a tasting terrace juts out over the vineyard into the landscape. Upon entering the atrium, it becomes clear that this is sometimes a stage for art events and exclusive gourmet presentations. Antonella and Gianfranco Kozlović, the fourth generation to run the business, are known as trendsetters, and in addition to herbicide-free cultivation, which should be a matter of course nowadays, the Kozlovićs are working on a digital database to be able to constantly monitor the condition of the grapes. Originally founded in the days of the old Austrian monarchy, the winery celebrates its 120th anniversary in 2024.

Giorgio Clai in Krasica, south of the town of Buje, has been developing his estate in recent years. One remembers times when the winemaker still sold his treasures from a simple garage, but today, his sophisticated, deep creations from organic cultivation are put through their paces in a simple, modern, tasting room with a glass front. Giorgio, a native of Croatia, has been running a restaurant in Trieste for more than 20 years. No wonder, then, that he likes to call his wines “Vini naturali”.

POMPOUS DESIGN VS. HISTORIC HAMLET

Natural continues as the watchword at the Heritage Wine Hotel Roxanich, which opened in 2018. A holiday at a wine farm is a fine thing in itself, but Istrian winemakers like Mladen Rožanić have gone one step further when it comes to accommodation. In Motovun, Croatia’s architectural grandmaster Idis Turato combines a historic wine warehouse from the old Austrian monarchy with cool architecture and bold styling. Leather four-poster beds meet brightly-coloured retro wallpaper in the house. “When choosing the design, we opted for a mix of historical and contemporary styles typical of the Italian aesthetic of the 1960s,” explained Lara Rožanić, the winemaker’s daughter and hotel manager.

Architecture always becomes particularly authentic when there is local coherence and lasting relevance for a region. When looking into the Water Mirror, a pool of water only four centimetres deep on the property of the Heritage Wine Hotel, the surrounding landscape is reflected and, of course, the sunset in the evening is spectacular.

New in the neighbourhood is the Tomaz winery. Ambitiously minimalist in the cellar, there is lots of Corten steel and Istrian stone for the eye – transience and weathering are expressly permitted here. The Grand Park Hotel Rovinj was built more extensively directly by the sea with cascade-like construction, green roofs, park, wellness centre and marina as landmarks. Silvia Trippolt-Maderbacher, author and Istria connoisseur, however, takes a more differentiated view of the region’s design and architecture. “Really eye-catching design milestones like Kozlović, or the large high-end hotels in Rovinj, take a back seat in terms of structural requirements. The focus is on preserving Croatia’s rich architectural heritage.”

At present it is mainly historic hamlets and villages that are being converted into luxury resorts and accommodation, such as the Palazzo Rainis Hotel & Spa in Novigrad. Many see the foundation of a building being the attitude with which you set the first stone, with Klaudio Ipša following this mantra in the revitalisation of his olive and wine estate. Wooden beams on the ceiling, a white-tiled fireplace, discreet wooden shelves, and a harmonious bronze-terracotta colour scheme. In this setting, the wine grown at up to 420 metres above sea level, and the olive oil from trees up to 200 years old, can be presented, tasted and experienced in context. Tip: in Vodnjan, stop by the casual tasting room of the Chiavalon family, winners of the olive oil Oscar ‘Il Premio Magnifico’ 2022! With its green tiles and airy terrace, it looks like a coffee shop for sensationally good olive oil. There are also canapés to go.

NEW PERSPECTIVES

Time also shapes space in the hidden. For this we stay in the hinterland, and at Sveti Petar u Šumi (in German "Saint Peter in the Forest"), the In Sylvis winery is hidden near a forest. In the middle of nowhere, Lara and Marko Zgrablić have installed a small, modern cube. The feeling of sitting in the garden with friends is accompanied by traditional Istrian cuisine (by reservation only); between the chirping of crickets and the singing of nightingales, authentic farms, so-called stancija, and historic bell gables of small churches climb up fields in Brtonigla. The vinophilic peculiarity of this Istrian section sees it lie on four different types of soil, which at the same time represent all the soil types of Istria, and all meet only in this area. In June, the festival of Istrian Malvasija is marked, and in autumn, mushrooms are celebrated.

Between Brtonigla and Buje, the organic winery Veralda – architecturally more of a concrete block than a drumbeat – is well on its way to establishing itself. Luciano Visintin, the mastermind behind the wines and the man who has decisively shaped the development of the winery in recent years, is in charge. Visintin broke completely new ground with the birth of the first rosé in Croatia’s wine history made entirely from Refošk grapes. Insiders say: With its Pet Nat (short for Pétillant Naturel, natural sparkling wine), the winery currently has almost a unique selling point in Istria. “They are among the very few who make an unfiltered, light pink Pet Nat based on terroir,” emphasised Christian Buechler, managing director of the Croatian online shop ‘Delicije’. He attests to the sparkling wine’s freshness, fruitiness and its ability to herald the next season as an ideal aperitif, or accompaniment to light summer dishes. And what would Istria be without its cuisine, with Restaurant Agli Amici in the marina of Rovinj, for example, where chef Emanuele Scarello uses Istria, Friuli and Venezia Giulia as building blocks for his tasting menus. Another popular spot is Cap Aureo where you can look out over the entire marina and old town from the fifth floor, while a fine selection of 20 plates of mainly vegetable cuisine accompanies your stay. Pleasure with a view, as in many places in Istria.

WINE ADDRESSES

Livio Benvenuti

Albert and Nikola Benvenuti produce excellent wines with passion and skill.

Kaldir 7, 52424 Motovun

T: +385 99 3541281, benvenutivina.com

Clai D.O.O.

Once an insider tip as a garage winery, today one of the wine players in Istria.

Brajki 105, 52460 Buje/Krasica

T: +385 91 5776364, clai.hr

Deklić vina

100 years of wine-growing tradition. Funny. You can adopt a vine.

Ferenci 48, 52447 Vižinada

T: +385 52 446151, vina-deklic.com

Domaine Koquelicot

The winemaking family produces wines in the style of Burgundy from the best Istrian grapes.

J O Usluge d.o.o. 52403 Gračišće 19

T: +385 99 6759119, domainekoquelicot.eu

Marko Fakin

This young winemaker is considered by many to be the next big star on the Istrian wine scene.

Bataji 20a, 52424 Motovun

T: +385 92 2399400, fakinwines.com

Ghira

Young, wild, up-and-coming. Tip. Try at "Damir & Ornella" in Novigrad.

Joakim Rakovac 4, 52466 Novigrad

T: +385 98 1910651, vinarinovigrad.com/en/services/ghira-2

Winery Gerzinic

More than 100 years of winemaking tradition at the small estate. One of the best Istrian terans.

Ohnići 9, 52447 Vižinada

T: +385 91 5067503, gerzinic.com

In Sylvis

Another insider tip on the scene. Friday to Sunday, a small cube in the garden becomes a restaurant (by reservation only).

Turčinovići 81, 52404 Sv. Petar u Šumi

T: +385 98 9475313, insylvis.com.

Ipša vina

Combination wine and olive growing as one of the very best. A lot of passion.

T: +385 52 664010, ipsa-maslinovaulja.hr

Kabola

Small, fine winery with great amphora wines, pressed by Marino Markežić.

Kanedolo 90, 52462 Momjan,

T: +385 52 7792008, kabola.hr

Kozlović

A winery, a design statement. Grandiose view. A must in any case.

Vale Momjan 78, 52460, Buje

T: +385 52 779177, kozlovic.hr

Matošević Winery

Ivica Matošević's wines are known far beyond the country's borders.

Krunčići 2, 52448 Sv. Lovreč

T: +385 52 448558, matosevic.com

Meneghetti Vina

Winery, hotel, villa, restaurant, own olive oil. A real place of pleasure.

Stancija Meneghetti 1, 52211 Bale

T: +385 52 528800, meneghetti.hr

Radovan Vina

Red earth, oak groves. Franko Radovan presses fine Chardonnays, Sauvignon Blancs and Rosés.

Radovani 14, 52463 Višnjan

T: +385 91 5124018, vinaradovan.com

Roxanich

The design winery is almost a sight to see. Sleep, eat, drink.

Canal 30, 52424 Motovun

T: +385 91 6170700, roxanich.com

Tomaz Vina

Motovun is grand cru zone for dry Teran. The new wine cellar has just been opened.

Canal 36, 52424 Motovun

T: +385 52 681717, vina-tomaz.hr

Trapan Winery

Bruno Trapan is different from all the others. Some say he is the rock 'n' roller of Istrian winemakers.

Giordano Dobran 63, 52204 Sisan

T: +385 91 5817281, trapan.hr

Veralda

Beautiful family winery with excellent wines, e.g. Refošk, vinified as Rosé Brut.

Kršin 4, 52474, Brtonigla

T: +385 52 774111, veralda.hr