A trip through South Tyrol is always a pleasure: wonderful scenery, delicious dishes and radiant wines.
The Eisack Valley between the towns of Brixen and Klausen is the northernmost wine-growing region in Italy, with grape varieties normally only found north of the Alps growing on the steep slopes: Kerner and Silvaner are most common, but Grüner Veltliner, Riesling or Pinot Grigio also thrive.
A trip through South Tyrol is always a pleasure: wonderful scenery, delicious dishes and radiant wines.
In the mighty Neustift monastery, a little north of Brixen, viticulture has been practised since the 12th century. A visit to the complex and the local wine tavern is an experience, and afterwards, a hike through the surrounding vineyards is a good idea. Brixen, the old bishop’s town, invites you to discover its arcades and winding alleys, with a good place to stay the Hotel Haller, situated on a terrace in the middle of the vineyards above the town. Those who prefer more dignified tradition should stay at the Hotel Elephant which has been in existence since the late Middle Ages, and boasts an impressive kitchen collaboration between junior chef Michael Falk and the extremely talented chef Mathias Bachmann.
The next stop is the provincial capital Bolzano, which is also an important wine town, with a walk through the small wine village of St. Magdalena, less than 2km from the city centre, recommended. Young, committed winegrowers are preparing to take over the tradition of their fathers, and are enthusiastically focusing on the local Vernatsch grape, with Christian Plattner from Ansitz Waldgries an established presence. In the western district of Gries lies the home of Lagrein, an esteemed autochthonous red wine variety, and shortly before the city limits, we stop at the Bolzano winery, its new building located in the middle of the vineyards and architecturally significant; the whole range of South Tyrolean varieties available in the light-flooded tasting room.
The wine village of Terlan is famous for long-lasting white wines, with a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and a little Sauvignon Blanc creating the world-renowned Terlaner Cuvée; the Terlan Winery, a winegrowers’ cooperative at the highest level, is appreciated worldwide for its great white wines. The red porphyry slopes are also well suited for red wines and this is demonstrated by the Kornell winery located in the district of Siebeneich. Discoveries in the vineyards prove that viticulture has been practised here since Roman times, and today, Florian Brigl and his team produce powerful Merlot, Cabernet and Lagrein. The fine white wines, which are also available in the house, come from the other side of the valley.
Eppan, with its districts of Girlan, St. Pauls and St. Michael and the market town of Kaltern, encompasses the largest wine villages in South Tyrol, with the high, chalky sites ideal for white wines – Pinot Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay dominate. Hans Terzer, cellar master of the St. Michael-Eppan winery, is one of the country’s white wine pioneers and has made the winery a leading operation. A well-deserved retirement beckons for Hans, with his designated successor Jakob Gasser, aiming to ensure that St. Michael-Eppan remains hugely popular. The Girlan wine cooperative in the neighbouring village has become one of the most important producers of Pinot Noir in recent years, with their excellent South Tyrolean Vigna Ganger, but also with Curlan and Trattmann ensuring an exciting range of Pinot Noir in their programme. One should not forget the classic Vernatsch Gschleier from old vines.
On the drive from Kaltern down to Lake Kalterer, the light suddenly seems more intense, with the vineyards around South Tyrol’s largest and warmest bathing lake producing the famous Kalterersee wine, a fruity, light red with a big reputation that the Kellerei Kaltern and a number of small, committed winegrowers are helping to maintain. In Tramin, the next village, the fragrant, intense Gewürztraminer dominates, with the new building of the Tramin winery rising from the surrounding vineyards like a climbing vine. A successful generation change has taken place at Elena Walch, the grande dame of South Tyrolean wine stepping back a little and leaving the business to her daughters, Julia and Karoline. The Walchs are increasingly focusing on Pinot Noir; there is the very good Pinot Nero Ludwig and then the Aton, which is only produced in small quantities.
Pinot Noir also plays an important role on the opposite side of the valley in Montan. Franzikus Haas was one of the great pioneers of this grape variety, realising early on that Pinot Noir comes out much better in cooler locations, increasingly moving his vineyards up into the hills. The Pónkler comes from a vineyard at 800 metres above sea level and is rightly considered one of the best Pinots from the south side of the Alps. After the death of Haas in 2022, the business has successfully continued under the guidance of his wife Luisa and son Franz junior. Castelfeder's salesroom is located in the romantic centre of Neumarkt and here too, after Günther Giovanett, the next generation is already in the saddle with siblings Ines and Ivan. The new Chardonnay Kreuzweg is one of the best white wines in South Tyrol, and on the other side of the valley, those who love powerful reds will certainly find what they are looking for at the Kurtatsch winery. Our route ends in Margreid where the Vinothek im Paradeis, which belongs to Alois Lageder, offers not only fine wines but also delicious dishes. It is a place to linger!
Haller Suites & AO Restaurant
Great terrace hotel in the vineyards above Brixen. The hotel also includes the AO Restaurant, where the two young stars Simon and Levin present exciting combinations.
Weinbergstraße 68, I-3968 Brixen, byhaller.com
Hotel Ansitz Rungghof & Restaurant 1524
Historic manor house in a wonderful location. The rooms have just been renovated and there is a great gourmet restaurant under the management of landlord Manuel Ebner.
Runggweg 26, I-39057 Girlan-Eppan, rungghof.it
Seehotel Ambach
A style icon from the 1970s, situated directly on the lake and yet away from the hustle and bustle.
Klughammer 3, I-39052 Kaltern, seehotel-ambach.com
Klosterhof, Kaltern
Hotel, winery and farm distillery in one. Wine spa with farm products.
Klavenzstraße 40, I-39052 Kaltern, klosterhof.it
Manna Resort
New design hotel above Montan. Each of the spacious rooms is individually furnished, the venue belonging to the Franz Haas winery.
Klammgasse 3, Kalditsch, I-39040 Montan, mannaresort.it
Apostelstube in the Hotel Elephant
Mathias Bachmann in the kitchen and Michael Fink in the dining room are a terrific team. Great cinema in the time-honoured Hotel Elephant.
Weißlahnstraße 4, I-39042 Brixen, hotelelephant.com
Restaurant Kircherhof
A traditional inn not far from Brixen. A large section of the ingredients come from their own farm with a good wine selection.
Albein 12, I-39042 Bressanone, kircherhof.it
Restaurant Zur Rose
Herbert Hintner and his son Daniel are among the culinary elite of South Tyrol. A culinary experience!
Josef-Innerhofer-Str. 2, I-39057 St. Michael-Eppan, zur-rose.com
Panholzer
Fantastic place on the shores of Lake Kaltern. Fine cuisine in romantic surroundings and a wine bar.
St. Josef am See 8, I-39052 Kaltern, panholzer.it
Old Post Office
Tasty cuisine and fine wines – these are available at Arno Baldo’s, directly on the village square of Tramin.
Rathausplatz 7, I-39040 Tramin, alte-post-tramin.com
Vineria Paradeis
Great Mediterranean courtyard! All wines from the Lageder collection, plus fine delicacies.
Casón Hirschprunn Street 4, I-39040 Margreid, aloislageder.eu
Kuenhof
Peter Pliger is the pioneer of the small winegrowers in the Eisack Valley. White wines full of character.
Mahr 110, I-39042 Brixen, kuenhof.com
Neustift Monastery Winery
Wine has been produced in the venerable walls of the monastery since 1142. Fine Silvaner, Kerner and Blauburgunder.
Stiftstraße 1, I-39040 Vahrn, kloster-neustift.it
Gumphof
Halfway between the valley and the Schlern massif, Markus Prackwieser produces wines that are definitely worth a little diversion.
Völser Straße 11, I-39050 Völs am Schlern, gumphof.it
Ansitz Waldgries
Christian Plattner is a master of St. Magdalener (Vernatsch) as well as Lagrein or Rosenmuskateller. Also great whites.
St. Justina 2, I-39100 Bolzano, waldgries.it
Bolzano Winery
In the spectacular building in the vineyard you can taste your way through a range of great wines.
Moritzinger Weg 36, I-39100 Bolzano, kellereibozen.com
Terlan Winery
Justifiably famous for its full-bodied and long-lived white wines, Terlan is a worldwide flagship of South Tyrolean top wines.
Silberleitenweg 7, I-39018 Terlan, kellerei-terlan.com
Kornell
Old manor house in a beautiful location just outside Bolzano. Florian Brigl and his team produce complex white and red wines here.
Kosmas-und-Damian-Weg 6, I-39018 Siebeneich/Terlan, kornell.it
Girlan Winery
The business centres around chairman and managing director Oskar Lorandi, becoming a top producer of Pinot Noir. The Vernatsch Gschleier from old vines is also top class.
St.-Martin-Straße 24, I-39057 Girlan, girlan.it
Winery St. Michael Eppan
Hans Terzer and the St. Michael Winery are among the quality pioneers in South Tyrol. This will not change under his designated successor Jakob Gasser.
Bypass road 17-19, I-39057 Appiano, stmichael.it
Manincor
Michael Goess-Enzenberg offers great wines from biodynamic cultivation.
St. Josef am See 4, I-39052 Kaltern, manincor.com
Elena Walch
A winery entirely in delicate female hands, run by Julia and Karoline, who are assisted by mother Elena Walch. Wide selection of high-quality wines.
Andreas-Hofer-Str. 1, I-39040 Tramin, elenawalch.com
Franz Haas
The winery is known for its high-quality Pinot Noir, which is cultivated at altitudes of up to 1000metres. After the early death of Pinot pioneer Franziskus Haas, his family continues to run the business in a solid manner.
Villnerstraße 6, I-39040 Montan, franz-haas.it
Tiefenbrunner
Traditional winery with great site wines; good Müller Thurgau (Feldmarschall) from 1000metres above sea level.
Schloßweg 4, I-39040 Entiklar, tiefenbrunner.com
Kurtatsch Winery
Fine white wines and powerful red wines from Merlot and Cabernet in the newly designed salesroom.
Wine street 23, I-39040 Kurtatsch, kellerei-kurtatsch.it
Castelfeder
The siblings Ines and Ivan Giovanett produce fine wines in the South Tyrolean lowlands. The new Chardonnay Kreuzweg is outstanding.
Marienstraße 8/1, 39044 Neumarkt, castelfeder.it
