Long Weekend: Welcome to Miami
Florida's most important metropolis is vibrant and glamorous, delighting with its sophisticated cuisine. Culinary influences from all over the world mingle together here.
Friday
Art in the city and art on the plate. The hedonistic world tour of Miami starts with culinary experimentation from Colombia.
After arriving, the first thing we do is discover the Miami of bygone days. Through an old gate and along a tropically overgrown path, we reach Villa Vizcaya in the tranquil Coconut Grove district. It was once the stately winter residence of a wealthy industrialist and its style is a mixture of Europe and American. In this respect, a visit to the estate is a good way to get in the mood for the weekend in the southernmost metropolis of the US: for in Miami there is also an endless range of culinary delights, influences collide here, too – even more so than in Villa Vizcaya.
For example, in Leku Restaurant, which is at the top of our list, chef Mikel Goikolea is dedicated to the taste of the Basque country. Here you are surrounded by art, after all, the restaurant is located in the Rubell Museum with its worthwhile exhibitions of contemporary art. Just opposite the Leku, the exhibition Superblue opened last year. We visit these interactive artworks in the afternoon, particularly impressive is the light installation by James Turrell.
The evening at Elcielo on the riverbank between the skyscrapers in the financial district of Brickell is also marked by a culinary desire for art. First we sample chocolate, then a basil bread tree lands on our table and finally the creative avant-garde menu follows as a sensual experience, for which Juan Manuel Barrientos is, in part, inspired the cuisine of his home country, Colombia. Last year, he was the first Colombian to receive a Michelin star for his Washington establishment.
On the way back to the hotel, we visit the Cuban quarter, Little Havana, where the famous Calle Ocho comes to life in the evening. Among all the bars, we choose the chic Cafe La Trova headed up by cantinero par excellence, Julio Cabrera, whose excellent cocktails are mixed according to his own traditional Cuban recipes. In a shimmering atmosphere with loud live music, people dance, laugh, drink and eat here until dawn – crammed full, life pulsates here in Little Havana.
Saturday
We drift through Miami Beach and find luxury, eccentricity and gourmet cuisine – all within sight of the famous beaches.
Saturday is all about Miami Beach. On the island off Miami, which has an outrageously high density of excellent hotels, restaurants, clubs and bars in addition to wide sandy beaches, we are first drawn to the Matador Room where the world-famous, Michelin-award-winning chef, Jean-Georges Vongerichten, rambles – in culinary terms – through Spain, Latin America and the Caribbean.
But first, the weekend should start in the elegant 1950s oval restaurant with an extensive brunch that includes huevos rancheros as well as coconut pancakes with lavender-maple syrup. From here, it's on to the recently pedestrianised Ocean Drive and the surrounding Art Deco district of the famous South Beach. Many years ago, hundreds of houses were saved from demolition and have since been allowed to shine on in pastel style under the intense Miami sun. After the walk and between the iconic, colourful shacks of the lifeguards we have to spend some time on the wide Miami Beach, not just because it's so hot, but so we can take a swim in the Atlantic.
After a glass of Champagne in the emerald ambience of the first-class bar in the former Surf Club, it's worth making a short detour to the Four Seasons on Surfside in northern Miami Beach. Dinner, however, is reserved in the hotel palace The Setai; a five-star hotel giant and the tallest building in Miami Beach. As pleasantly minimalist as the rooms are, furnished with Asian touches, the dinner at Jaya is typical Miami.
To the beats of the DJ, we order a spicy Chilli Passion Martini aperetif and watch the eccentric show between the illuminated palm trees. Then interest turns exclusively to the food and the tastes and aromas of Asia and India; octopus with adobo sauce, lamb chops with turmeric potatoes and finally the many small bowls of delicacies from the elaborate thali platter. Finally, the evening comes to an end with Fig Old Fashioned cocktails.
Sunday
MiMo district and Wynwood, two revitalised trendy districts of Miami, are on the agenda for Sunday. Hip, artistic and above all great for gourmets.
For breakfast, we head to Versailles, a Cuban café that opened over 50 years ago. We fortify ourselves with a Cuban sandwich and sweet Cuban coffee before continuing on to the so-called 'MiMo' district. The Mid-Century-Modernism-style houses with their often hip motels and eateries like Cafe Kush are worth the detour.
It's not the only revitalised neighbourhood we're heading to today. Just a few blocks away is Wynwood. After the turn of the millennium, one would still have had no reason to stray into this run-down neighbourhood. But investor and developer Tony Goldman saw potential in the bare walls; canvases, which he had artists paint.
This became known as Wynwood Walls, an international open-air street art gallery surrounded by streets with trendy shops, cafés and restaurants. Just around the corner we discover the brightly coloured façade of the legendary Zak the Baker, where excellent bread is baked. We, however, try a babka – simply delicious. And because it's so sweaty and humid today, the prospect of a cool beer under palm trees in the tropical garden at Cerveceria Tropical is too tempting. Named after Cuba's largest brewery which was founded in 1888, this Wynwood brewery serves a large beer selection, including trendy IPAs and stouts.
We stay in Wynwood for dinner: in the Japanese restaurant Uchi by the James Beard-awarded chef and trained sushi master Tyson Cole. With around 100 small dishes, it's easy to lose track. A way out of this selection dilemma is offered by the very helpful, waiters – or, as in our case, the omakase menu with 10 set courses. After starting with caviar and a strawberry Hai Tai, oysters with gooseberries and chilli de Árbol follow, then Bluefin Mushroom Crudo; these amongst others are inspiring. Surely one of the best Japanese establishments in Miami – what a finale to this weekend!
Hotels
The Setai
2001 Collins Ave, Miami Beach, FL 33139
thesetaihotels.com/miami-beach
Fontainebleau Miami Beach
4441 Collins Ave, Miami Beach, FL 33140
fontainebleau.com
Hotel Delano South Beach
1685 Collins Ave, Miami Beach, FL 33139
delanosouthbeach.hotels-miamibeach.com
W Miami
485 Brickell Ave, Miami, FL 33131
www.marriott.commiawm-w-miami
Restaurants
Uchi
252 NW 25th St, Miami, FL 33127
uchimiami.com
Elcielo by Juan Maual Barrientos
31 SE 5th St, Miami, FL 33131
elcielomiami.com
Leku
1100 NW 23rd St, Miami, FL 33127
lekumiami.com
Matador Room
2901 Collins Ave, Miami Beach, FL 33140
www.matadorroom.com
Joe's Stone Crab Restaurant
11 Washington Ave, Miami Beach, FL 33139
joesstonecrab.com
Stubborn Seed
101 Washington Ave, Miami Beach, FL 33139
stubbornseed.com
Ariete
3540 Main Hwy, Coconut Grove, FL 33133
arietecoconutgrove.com
Bars
Cafe La Trova
971 SW 8th St, Miami, FL 33130
cafelatrova.com
Champagne Bar at The Surf Club in The Four Seasons
9011 Collins Ave, Surfside, FL 33154
www.fourseasons.com
The Sylvester
3456 N Miami Ave, Miami, FL 33127
thesylvesterbar.com