Founded in 1707, Bodegas Zarate is one of the oldest and most traditional bodegas in the north of Spain. In the Rias Baixas region in the far north-west of Spain on the cool Atlantic coast, the winery is one of the pioneers of Albariño. This exciting white wine variety, which develops a racy mineral character in the cool Atlantic climate on the predominant granite soils here, is perhaps most reminiscent of Riesling at its core. In the mid-1950s, Bodegas Zarate began to develop this style, which has experienced a rapid rise since the late 1990s and, with its zesty, fruity character, is one of the most popular white wines in Spain and has become an integral part of the wine lists of leading restaurants. Bodegas Zarate is located in the Salnés Valley and, according to its own information, cultivates around 6.5 hectares spread over 11 parcels. It was from this valley that Albariño began its triumphal march. Some of these parcels still have vines that are over 100 years old. In the 21st century, the parcels are cultivated purely organically, certified since 2006, which means that all types of pesticides, herbicides and fungicides have been consistently banned from the vineyards. The Albariño wines from Bodegas Zaraze are an impressive demonstration of what is possible in this part of the Rias Baixas thanks to the interplay between the cool maritime climate and the terroir. They are cool, racy and mineral, at times almost stony and fascinating in their aromatic texture and salty mouthfeel. The family is also committed to preserving old, traditional red wine varieties such as Caino Tinto, Loureiro Tinto and Espadeiro. A trip to these cool corners of Spain should therefore be worthwhile.