Review of the day: Restaurant Ugandi Resto - Otepää, Estonia

Estonians have a reputation for being reserved and humble, and their restaurants tend to mirror this national temperament. Combining Northern restraint with Mediterranean warmth has become a successful restaurant formula: à la carte menus built largely around pasta and pizza, with a handful of signature dishes that are often, in fact, the best reason to visit.

At first glance, Ugandi appears to follow this familiar script. Yet the resemblance is fleeting: Those who step inside soon discover a kitchen guided by a far more ambitious philosophy.

The restaurant is particularly skilled at preparing lamb. Whole carcasses arrive at the kitchen and are butchered in-house, each cut thoughtfully prepared so that nothing is wasted. Recently, the team has gone even further: The restaurant now keeps a flock of 50 sheep on one of Estonia’s most renowned farms, ensuring complete oversight from pasture to plate. The animals’ diet, and the terrain on which they roam, translates into exceptionally flavoured meat, which Head Chef Silver Illak further elevates on the plate.