Who or what has changed the way we serve food in fine dining? Ferran Adrià or Instagram? The fact is that since these upheavals, the arrangements on plates are no longer comparable to those of yesteryear. One example is Sascha Wehrhahn's "Esskultur", where the preferably meat-free dishes on the four- or five-course menu are arranged with great effort and dedication. For example, when owner and chef Wehrhahn places a soft egg yolk on spinach, crispy potato cubes and barberries and surrounds it with potato foam, making it look like an elaborate fried egg. The "scree landscape" of salted caramel ice cream, panna cotta, mandarin and burnt white chocolate crumbs is also impressive - a plate that you want to explore spoon by spoon. However taste is not always the top priority in "Esskultur". With some dishes, Werhahn seems to prioritise presentation over the palate experience, such as when a sponge cake bar is topped with a thin, marinated slice of carrot, purslane, seaweed caviar and beech mushrooms. Even the creamy chilli crème fraîche dumpling fails to make the creation resonate. In "Esskultur", the beauty of the plates sometimes seems more important than the quality of the ingredients. But when Werhahn builds his arrangements on rich flavour ideas, his cuisine shows its full potential - for example in the fregola sarda with porcini mushrooms and parmesan foam: inconspicuous in appearance, but great in taste! The wines are well-selected. The service is warm, attentive and creates a relaxed atmosphere.
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