All the praise for Jan Hartwig's cuisine is true. His technically adept style of cooking is both cosmopolitan and rooted in the region. The dishes are too good to eat - but the three-star chef never compromises on taste. He is perhaps even bolder in his contrasting flavors today than he was in his "Atelier" days at the "Bayrischer Hof". But every plate is so perfectly thought out that you could almost say it leaves guests little room to take a deep breath. You are kept on your toes non-stop at "JAN". You can discover, indulge and taste - for example when he serves a Königsberg sweetbread dumpling. Yes, you read that right: Sweetbreads with caper velouté and all the trimmings. Or when he serves a pâté en croûte with duck liver, country pork and lardo di colonnata that would bring tears of joy to the eyes of any French old master. With such impeccable quality, it couldn't be otherwise. Nestled between earthy, thick slices of Périgord truffle and a parsley pesto is probably the most tender pigeon breast that has ever seen the light of a kitchen pass. And a structure made from Braeburn apples is so forbiddingly good that even God would have beaten Adam and Eve to it - and eaten every last crumb of the dessert himself. The wine list focuses on Germany and France and surprises with a variety of mature wines. Exciting new discoveries are served in engaging pairings. Paradise? So it does still exist on earth - at least in culinary terms.
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