An evening of "Wild Scandinavian Cooking" can quickly become a test of courage. Let's take the whole cod head: an unusual culinary phenomenon. The firm meat is found in the cheeks, hard-boiled people also eat the eyes, while the tongue melts delicately on the palate. It is served with crispy fries with marinated red onions, wild herbs and pickled pumpkin. The well-known Danish restaurateur Brian Bojsen, who runs "Brian's - Steak & Lobster" in Pöseldorf, has plenty of experience to take even less courageous diners with him: The Norwegian Surf & Turf with scallops, juicy pork belly with a crispy crust, pea cabbage, cucumber and green sour cream is straightforwardly balanced in its subtle contrasts - as is the smoked mackerel with peas, blueberries, sour cream and dill oil. The restaurant is located on the houseboat "Caesar", built in 1902, which is moored in Sandtorkai within sight of the Elbphilharmonie concert hall. Antlers and furs hang on the wood-paneled walls and a massive wooden table sits enthroned in the middle. If you need to go out, you can go ashore via the railing; the host pays the 50 cents for the public toilet. The atmosphere is relaxed, although Brian Bojsen is rumored to have fallen out with his business partner. Surfströmming is reserved for the particularly adventurous, the fermented herring is billed as an "absolute test of courage for the palate and stomach". It is only served outside and for four people - only twice since opening last August.