To many, his commitment to service and hospitality made him the greatest figure in the history of Danish gastronomy. After a long illness, Jan Restorff has passed away.
At just 57 years old, Jan Restorff's passing on 3 August feels unbearably sad. And yet, when you look at everything the legendary Faroese accomplished in his far too short life, one cannot help but be deeply impressed. Søllerød Kro has stood since 1677 and will soon celebrate its 350th anniversary. But in all those years, there is no doubt that it was during Jan Restorff’s 26 years as manager that the inn was at its most iconic, always developing and redefining itself.
He took on the role in 1999, and with his enormous passion for true hospitality, he was a major reason why thousandsmade the journey to the small village north of Copenhagen over the years. Many of us didn’t even say we were going to Søllerød Kro – we said we were going to see Jan.
For a young person, setting foot in a gourmet restaurant for the first time can be an intimidating experience. You may not know the protocol or the many unspoken rules. But Restorff could dispel those fears in a split second – and before you knew it, you felt completely at ease.
He considered it his most important task to make everyone feel welcome – whether you were a millionaire or a student who had scraped together just enough for the full menu. If he sensed your enthusiasm for food and wine, there was no limit to the time he would spend talking to you – always on equal footing, and always with an extra glass of wine you just had to taste now that you had been discussing some obscure corner of Burgundy. He loved pouring blind tastings and playfully challenging wine connoisseurs – always with warmth and a smile, and with genuine praise on the rare occasion someone actually guessed the wine correctly.
Dining at Søllerød Kro under Jan Restorff was a truly guest-centred experience. Here, nothing was too much to ask. If a guest ordered a particular wine, Restorff would inform the kitchen so the sauce could be adjusted to harmonize with the wine’s acidity. “We play attacking football,” he would always say if there was even the slightest hint of dissatisfaction at a table. It was rare, of course – but misunderstandings can occur, and Restorff took great pride in ensuring that no one ever left Søllerød Kro disappointed or unfulfilled.
Restorff was a true foodie who loved hearing about other people’s dining experiences and always generously shared his recommendations with his guests. When not at work, he was often found inside some of Copenhagen’s finest restaurants – unless he had taken a trip to his beloved wine regions of Burgundy or Piedmont, or secured a table at one of the temples of gastronomy in Paris. But only when he had time off. For the rule was always: if Søllerød Kro was open, Restorff would be there. He loved it, and he knew how much his guests hoped he would be there too.
Within the industry, Restorff was held in the highest regard. Many of Denmark’s finest sommeliers and waiters have passed through Søllerød Kro over the years, and Jan remains a benchmark of what true hospitality means. In recent days, reading the heartfelt tributes shared by colleagues on social media, it is clear that many feel a strong urge to carry his legacy forward.
Restorff received many accolades throughout his career – both personal awards and honors recognizing Søllerød Kro’s hospitality and exceptional wine cellar, which became one of the very best in the country under his stewardship. The final award he received could not have been more fitting: the Lifetime Achievement Award presented at Falstaff’s 2nd Nordics Restaurant Guide launch in Malmö this past March. I spoke with Restorff in the weeks leading up to the event. Because of his illness, he naturally had to be told that something special was in store. He truly wanted to attend and fully expected to – but the doctors couldn’t give him the green light to go.
Many prestigious awards were handed out that night, each accompanied by generous applause. But when Jan Restorff’s name and image appeared on the screen, everyone in the room rose to their feet in a standing ovation that lasted several minutes. It was a powerful moment. It left no doubt: this was a man who meant an incredible amount to an entire industry, and whose unique sense of hospitality had touched and moved many.
That is how we remember Jan – may his memory be cherished and honored.
