The Falstaff Restaurant Guide presents Estonia's movers and shakers for 2025.
THE BEST RESTAURANTS IN ESTONIA
Situated at the edge of Europe, traveling to Estonia is not easy – especially its more remote regions. Restoring an old manor house in such a place is therefore a brave undertaking; transforming said manor into a hotel and restaurant that sets the national standard for all hotels and restaurants is downright heroic. And making it a popular destination with the international jet set is a small miracle. These three feats have been achieved by a man who is not from Estonia himself, but has made his mark on the local hospitality industry, teaching it to be optimistic, consistent and forward-looking. Martin Breuer's Pädaste Manor has trained many of Estonia's top hoteliers, and Estonian hospitality would not be what it is without Breuer's contributions.
Despite his young age, Margo Paluoja has already experienced a lot. He has worked in Estonia's finest restaurants, created menus, trained chefs and even opened his own restaurant, UDU. Through it all, Paluoja has always maintained an uncompromising attitude to quality and purity of taste, refining his flavors daily through documented experimentation. As a result, Margo has become a unique chef with a distinct way of cooking. The results of his determined, skilful and impeccable work have been particularly striking this year: His pop-up dinners and the opening of UDU were bold ventures at a time when investing in new ideas was discouraged in Estonia.
What is a hobby and what is a job? Where does one end and the other begin? These are some of the questions that come to mind when visiting ANNO Home Restaurant and Wine Corner. In spite of its name, it is not actually a home restaurant, and the hosts have no formal training. They are simply passionate gourmets who decided to own and run a restaurant. Yet they offer a level of hospitality that is so rich in expertise, skill and passion that it is difficult even for seasoned professionals to keep up – whether it's the way the hostess prepares the food or the host serves the wines. Or the special ability of both to give each guest a sense of personal care and attention.
It is uncommon in Estonia for restaurants to get entangled in social issues. But the small restaurant Kolm Sõsarat in the village of Lüllemäe did just that: After gaining exposure throughout Estonia, it earned international acclaim, ensuring economic stability and sustainability in a very controversial time for the hospitality industry. Furthermore, it took on the roles of highly visible co-facilitator in the national debate on marginalization and provider of practical solutions, inviting top experts to their on-site think tanks. While this sort of initiative is generally expected from large companies, Kolm Sõsarat proves even the smallest micro-enterprise can think and act big.
Estonia may be small, but it boasts large swaths of lush forests and grassland, both of which are high in biodiversity. A very large proportion of the plants found there are edible – but only a handful are used for food. And while a few restaurants in Estonia employ a forager, only Hiis makes a point of briefing theirs every morning on what is needed for dinner, ensuring maximum freshness and bringing the natural bounty of the land onto their plates. More a part of the landscape than a human settlement, Hiis offers the longest tasting menu in Estonia, proving that nature is always bountiful.
For ages, chefs tended to be the face of a restaurant; if they also have a good wine cellar, the sommelier might get a bit of the spotlight. But the manager hardly ever gets any love, their central role only coming to the fore when things go wrong. Estonia has recently experienced several of its most important restaurants losing their lustre simultaneously. In most cases, the restaurant closes, as revamping a concept requires special skills which are near impossible to teach. At the moment, there are numerous outdated restaurants in Estonia, but only one man who has found ways to keep them open. Last year, Henri Loodmaa reinvented the concepts of an entire restaurant group – not only ensuring their survival, but placing them among the best in Tallinn. A job very well done.
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