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@ Pierre Orsander

Trøndelag: So Much More Than Sushi-Grade Salmon

Norway
Gourmet

From award-winning cheeses to beer fit for the Bocuse d’Or, Norway's Trøndelag region has built an impressive culinary résumé despite its modest size. This year, Trondheim's local food festival Trøndersk Matfestival celebrated its 20th anniversary, offering a unique chance to dive deep into the producers, their craft, and their dedication.

If you ask around Trondheim for tips on things to do in Trøndelag, the answer is always the same: “the Trøndersk Matfestival!” With more than 200 local food exhibitors, it takes well over a day to taste your way through. And that’s before even getting to the Trondheim Beer Festival held at the same time, where 30 breweries serve over 300 different varieties. But Trøndelag is more than just Trondheim. Zooming out to the region as a whole reveals a bigger story than the city’s love for craft – it’s a celebration of the area’s culinary heritage.

Served Around the World

The first obvious point of pride in Trøndelag is, of course, its salmon. Frøya has become synonymous with top quality, prized for its firm texture, delicate marbling, and balanced fat content. The back loin cut – often called the “sushi cut” – is particularly sought after: Ideal for sushi and sashimi, it's one of Norway’s proudest exports. Found on plates from Copenhagen to Tokyo, it's valued not only for its taste, but also the story it carries. Each cut reflects the dedication of Frøya’s producers and Trøndelag's pristine environment, making it a symbol of Norwegian culinary craftsmanship recognized worldwide. And there’s even more to discover.

© McKenna Starck

The World’s Best Cheese

In 2023, the small family-owned producer Gangstad Gårdsysteri made headlines at the World Cheese Awards, hosted by the Guild of Fine Food. Their matured blue cheese, Nidelven Blå, was crowned the world’s best after collecting an impressive array of honors at the same competition (Gold in 2018 and Super Gold in 2019). This wasn’t the first time Norway took the top spot – back in 2016, Kraftkar stole the show. But Nidelven Blå solidified Trøndelag’s reputation as a cheese powerhouse.

Speaking with local cheese maker Elisa Helgebostad of Hitra Gårdsmat uncovers a strong sense of pride and craftsmanship. For example, their Grotteost is matured in a temperature-controlled cave, a process reminiscent of champagne production. And just like bottles of sparkling wine, the cheeses must be carefully turned to ensure the right development – though the wheels are, of course, a lot bulkier, as Helgebostad points out.

Matured blue cheese Nidelven Blå.
© Pierre Orsander
Matured blue cheese Nidelven Blå.

Certified Local Food Experts

At Hotell Frøya, the region’s culinary identity is front and center: They even created an internal certification program to train their staff as “local food experts.” These ambassadors are tasked with sharing stories about the area’s traditional cuisine, and meeting one of them reveals not only personal pride as a certified expert, but also a broader pride in the region itself.

Here you are introduced to specialties like locally distilled aquavit, smoked salmon, and traditional fish dishes, creating a bridge between hospitality and storytelling. The program ensures that every visitor leaves with more than just a meal – they take home a deeper understanding of Trøndelag’s heritage.

Beer Fit for Bocuse d’Or

The same pride can be felt at the Bryggeriet Frøya brewery. Their collaborative creation with Hogna Brygg and Klostergården, Sjømat Gosea sour beer brewed with sugar kelp and seawater – was selected by chefs competing in the Bocuse d’Or in 2024, when the prestigious event was hosted in Trondheim.

At the competition’s bar, Sjømat Gose was poured alongside other Frøya brews such as Sletringen Hvit IPA, Havmann Blonde, Havfrua Lys Lager, and Guri Kunna Stout. Today, Sjømat Gose also enjoys the spotlight as the official festival beer at the Norwegian Seafood Festival.

The Trøndelag Food Manifesto

Inspired by the New Nordic Manifesto initiated by René Redzepi and Claus Meyer in 2004, Trøndelag became the first region in the world to create one of its own in 2011. Built on eight guiding principles, it set out to promote regional uniqueness and safeguard traditions. At its core, the manifesto emphasizes sustainability, education, and innovation – while ensuring that food culture is passed on to younger generations and shared with visitors as part of the Trøndelag’s identity.

More than a decade later, the manifesto had evolved into a living framework – one that helped Trondheim and Trøndelag earn the title of European Region of Gastronomy from IGCAT (the International Institute of Gastronomy, Culture, Arts and Tourism) in 2022. A recent update in 2023 has ensured it continues to reflect local values.

Britannia Bar
© Will Lee Wright
Britannia Bar

Come for the Local Flavors, Stay for the experience

While Trøndelag’s food heritage shines through its salmon, cheeses, and reindeer dishes, its urban food scene is equally impressive. In Trondheim, a city of around 200,000, ambitious restaurants and bars are making waves bot locally and internationally.

Take Kombo, a newly-opened rooftop restaurant founded by chef Håvard Klempe and bartender Jørgen Dons (of the acclaimed Bar Raus). Their concept blends a refined menu with cocktail pairings and breathtaking city views.

Or stop by Olga’s, opened by TV personality and chef Renée Fagerhøi of Bula Neobistro together with sommelier Lena Engtrø: Located in the newly opened Nye Hjorten Teater alongside the contemporary art venue PoMo, Olga’s offers comforting flavors with finesse –like their brisket sandwich, made with meat sourced from local smokehouse BarBeintQ.

Beyond these newcomers, Trondheim boasts a vibrant mix of wine bars, cocktail lounges, and Michelin-recognized restaurants – five in total, including two with stars: Fagn and Speilsalen. The Britannia Bar has also earned international acclaim, winning “Best Cocktail Bar” and “Best Cocktail Menu,” while head mixologist Øyvind Lindgjerdet was crowned “Best Bartender” at the 2025 Bartenders’ Choice Awards. Their now off-menu cocktail Moonshine even claimed the title of “Best Signature Cocktail” in 2023.

With so much to explore, Trøndelag is more than a hidden gem – it’s a destination worthy of a spot on any food explorer's list.

Pierre Orsander
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