No, Reto Brändli is not dogged. Although, back at the "Ecco", he naturally wants stars again - two please - he approaches the matter with an enviable composure. And serves French cuisine that is as light-footed and self-confident as he is. Brändli was part of the "Giardino" family for four years before star gastronomy took him to Berlin and St. Moritz. But the connection to Ascona remained - perhaps because of the delicate scent of lemons here, which he loves so much and which accompanies Brändli's signature in many dishes. Such as the greeting from the kitchen: crispy roll with gamba blanca and citrus, a delicate tartelette of old dairy cow with beetroot, radish, caviar and smoked mayonnaise. And a personal favorite: an egg royale with imperial caviar and potato foam that is so creamy and light you want to lie down in it. The star of the show, the iced foie gras filled with orange and lobster espuma, is as delicate as a sorbet. Brändli proves why he is considered an exceptional talent. Fresh turbot follows, flown in from Portugal less than 24 hours ago, accompanied by horseradish, apple, beef tongue rolls, kohlrabi and oxtail essence with lovage. Accompanied by a complex Viognier, recommended by the hostess of the house, Theresa Windhofer. By the way, non-alcoholic diners don't have to miss out on pairings at the "Ecco": The accompanying teas from "Saveur" are so finely tuned that they are in no way inferior to the wine accompaniment. Pastry chef Antje Hauser creates the sweet finish: yoghurt foam, pear sorbet and mousse, iced berries in a lemon sauce. Conclusion of the evening: The stars should come back - please!
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