The first thing you notice is the sound. Polish rap, French rap and British rap. Small graffiti can be seen on the walls, the atmosphere is urban but unobtrusive, peppered with a touch of timelessness. If you have the time, you should definitely take a tour of the adjoining Museum of Urban and Contemporary Art before visiting the restaurant. Afterwards, you can slide effortlessly from art on the walls to art on the plates and in the glasses, where natural wines are celebrated. The evening begins appropriately with an Ambonnay Grand Cru Champagne from 2018, which accompanies a sparkling preview of the upcoming menu. A small parsnip soup, a croissant filled with prawn tartare, a delicious mushroom pirogi: all the flavors come together again in the course of the evening. Chef Bastian Falkenroth came up with this idea, but his cuisine is by no means cerebral, instead it is light on its feet. Relaxed, cool, just like himself. Nevertheless, he has imposed a few guidelines on himself. The products are selected seasonally, produced sustainably and come from the region. He combines the regional with an unagitated, skillful cosmopolitanism. Take his parsnip from the ashes, for example, which shares the plate with walnuts and apples. A dish that is served without heat, but has a comforting depth of flavor that will warm your heart. Falkenroth's highlight, however, is the Bavarian prawn with butternut squash and parsley, a wonderfully skillful interplay of flavours and textures.
Route
