Some “Grätzel”—for non-Viennese: that’s what they call small areas within the districts—are considered culinary wastelands. The one around the Meiselmarkt in Vienna’s 15th district, however, is in luck. Within just a few months, Philipp Barosch’s “Nido Bistro” opened its doors, and the “Heidingers” restaurant was saved. And the space left vacant after the “Jagetsberger” restaurant closed remained empty for only a very short time. In true Viennese style: the corner spot is now called “pomali”—the website provides the translation: “cozy, unhurried, slow, little by little.” Two young women have spruced up the little bar, which had recently been covered in a layer of grime. Mathilde Mazaud was once sous-chef at the Parisian brasserie “Les Fous de l’Île”; she met Karoline Schuster at the trendy Leopoldstadt spot “brösl.” The formula here: accessible dining, quality ingredients, and dishes that are simple yet far from ordinary. Just how good a melt-in-your-mouth “mustard egg on leaf spinach” or braised “carrots in poppy seed butter” can taste is evident from the small appetizer menu, which always includes at least one potato dish. For example, those with a spicy sauce and aioli, or—currently—new potatoes with lovage mayo. For those who’ve been missing meat and fish so far—the restaurant’s preference for vegetarian options is evident, yet there’s always something to satisfy both cravings—such as a formidable beef goulash with spätzle or salmon trout in beurre blanc with sorrel. All this is paired with a few well-chosen natural wines. You can tell just how popular this concept is when you try to make a last-minute reservation and the word
“waiting list” regularly pops up.
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