Sodoma (Zur Sonne)

Josef "Pepi" Sodoma always played a special role among Austria's most legendary innkeepers. Nobody called his Tulln inn "Zur Sonne" by that name; people had been going to "Zum Sodoma" for decades. This referred to him as the host and his wife Gerti's excellent cuisine. And when the last guest had left on Saturday evening, things really got going - the Sodomas got in the car and sped off to the best wineries in the south or the finest restaurants in Europe. This had two effects: a wine cellar with the best stock, especially in Italy. And a cuisine that always offered much more than just randomness. A few years ago, these two Sodomas - now in their 70s - retired to the second floor of the house. Downstairs, their children Susanne took over as hostess and Markus as head chef - both in their 50s. And what's the difference? None at all. The braised oxtail in nut butter with pioppini - "very hot plate" - is as much soul food as ever. The grammel dumplings with warm coleslaw are a benchmark. New dishes keep popping up, such as spring rolls of leg meat with paprika cabbage. As sommelier and man for everything, Jan Finz acts almost like another member of the family. Anyone who wants to know what continuity means should stop in here.

A bank for decades and for many the reason to visit Tulln regularly. Inn cuisine at the highest level, wonderful bar. Legendary: the tiny Grammelknödel dumplings and the wine collection.